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Don’t throw out your garden debris or kitchen vegetable scraps! Turn them into rich, crumbly, organic material to help plants thrive We’ll show you two different composting methods—”cold” and “hot.” Cold is easier, but hot transforms scraps into compost more quickly.
What Is Compost?
Compost is a nutrient-rich, soil-like material made up of decomposing organic matter—most often fallen leaves, grass clippings, plant debris, vegetable scraps, and yard waste. The key idea behind composting is that the materials and waste that you might normally throw away can be recycled to help plants grow, delivering better harvests and flower blooms.
Also, compost fixes soil problems. If the key to a successful garden is good soil (and it is), compost is the gardener’s secret weapon. It has been lovingly called the “gardener’s great equalizer” because of its ability to amend soil. Is your soil too sandy? Compost will hold sand particles together so they can absorb water like a sponge. Troubled by hard clay soil? Compost attaches to particles of clay, creating spaces for water and nutrients to flow to plant roots. Even in perfectly loamy soil, compost brings something: a ton of nutrients.
In community gardens, you may see a series of several bins filled with organic matter in different states of decomposition, but don’t let a professional system like that intimidate you! It’s a common misconception that you need to have a large outdoor space in order to practice composting. You can make your own compost in a space as small as a patio or balcony.
Are Compost Bins Necessary?
At its most basic, a composting system doesn’t need to consist of anything more than a pile in the corner of your yard. As long as the pile ends up being about 4 feet high, 4 feet wide, and 4 feet deep, it should successfully decompose everything you throw at it.
Most compost piles, however, have a dedicated structure that keeps it all contained—something like a cube made of wood pallets or even a purpose-built plastic compost bin. Here’s how to make your own compost bin! Fancy bins with multiple layers and sifters are nice but not necessary.
Most organic materials can be composted. As mentioned above, this includes things like fallen leaves, grass clippings, shredded newspaper, wood chips, vegetable scraps, and so on.
In addition to the ingredients mentioned above, any of these items may be added to a compost pile:
Coffee grounds and loose tea or compostable tea bags (note that most tea bags are not fully compostable, so tear or shred them before adding to compost)
Dry goods (crackers, flour, spices)
Eggshells
Hair
Nutshells
Pasta (cooked or uncooked)
Seaweed
Shredded paper/newspaper
Cardboard (non-glossy)
Bedding from chicken coops or from small mammal pets (guinea pigs, rabbits, hamsters, etc.)
What °ä´ˇ±·â€™T Be Composted?
Materials that you should NOT put in your compost pile include inorganic materials (rock, glass, metal, plastic, etc.) and animal products, like bones, seafood, meat scraps, dairy products, and grease. (Eggshells are an exception since they break down easily and are a good source of calcium!) Additionally, don’t add dog or cat waste (nor kitty litter) to your compost pile, as these may contain parasites or other nasty things that may not get completely decomposed.
Also, if you’re collecting grass clippings from the neighbors, make sure they don’t use weed killers on their lawns. Those chemicals take forever to break down and will negatively impact any plants on which you use your finished compost.
4 Essential Ingredients of a Healthy Compost Pile
A productive compost pile needs four things:
Brown matter (“browns”): This is carbon-rich material such as straw, wood chips, shredded brown cardboard, or fallen leaves.
Green matter (“greens”): These are nitrogen-rich materials like grass clippings, weeds, manure, or kitchen scraps. Greens should have a carbon-to-nitrogen ratio of about 30:1.
Water: The pile should be kept consistently moist, which is especially important if you add lots of dry leaves or hay. Usually, rainfall is enough to keep it damp, but in a dry summer, you might have to spray it with water.
Air: Oxygen is necessary for aerobic microorganisms to survive. They are the ones doing all the work of turning your garden waste into black gold.
Keep in mind that color isn’t always a reliable indicator of what is green or brown. For example, fresh grass clippings—even when spread out and left to dry—are still considered a “green” ingredient even though they’ve turned a brownish color (because really all they’ve lost is water). On the other hand, straw is always considered “brown” because, before the main stems died, much of the plant’s nitrogen had gone into the seeds as protein before the plant was harvested.
Compost decomposes much faster if you chop up the ingredients, so shredding woody materials and tearing up cardboard speeds up the process because there is more surface area exposed to the microbes that decompose the organic matter.
Air is vital to the composting process, so it’s important to mix the ingredients together and never squash them down. Many people turn their compost piles several times over the summer. Turning your compost helps speed up the process of decomposition, but it is not necessary as long as the pile isn’t completely compacted. It will all rot eventually!
Composting Methods: Hot vs. Cold Composting
1. Hot (or “Active”) Composting
The most effective way to produce rich garden compost is to create a hot, or active, compost pile. It’s called “hot” because it can reach an internal temperature of up to 160°F (71°C) and “active” because it destroys—essentially by cooking—weed seeds and disease-causing organisms. A temperature of about 140°F (60°C) is what you should aim for in a hot, active compost pile. (The size of the pile, the ingredients, and their arrangements in layers are key to reaching that desired outcome.)
Use the Right Ratio
When making a hot compost pile, you want to have 2 to 3 times more brown materials than greens, at least initially, although some more greens can be added as the compost cooks.
For most gardeners, the biggest challenge is, therefore, collecting enough brown materials and not just piling in loads of greens, which will result in a soggy, smelly mess. For example, never add lots of grass clippings in one go, as they will just form a slimy, matted layer.
On the other hand, avoid adding too much brown matter at once, too. Dumping your fall leaves into the compost heap all at once can really slow things down! Add them in modest qualities along with fresh green ingredients. Or, compost them separately over one or two years as leaf mold. See how to make leaf mold here.
Alternate layers of brown and green matter when building your hot compost pile, and add a few shovels full of garden soil to contribute to those essential soil microbes. The more green matter, the hotter the pile will get, and the faster it will decompose. Heat also helps to kill off disease spores and weed seeds.
How Big Should the Compost Pile Be?
A hot compost pile should be at least 3 feet in diameter, though slightly larger (4 feet) is ideal. The pile will shrink as the ingredients decompose. Consider keeping the contents in place with chicken netting; wooden sides would be even better to keep the pile contained.
Making a Hot Compost Pile
Cutting up or shredding materials helps speed up the process.
Pile the ingredients like a layer cake, with carbon-rich materials (browns) on the bottom. Placing twigs and woody stems here will help air circulate into the pile.
Next, cover the layer with soil.
Add nitrogen-rich materials (greens), followed by soil. Repeat the alternating layers of greens and browns until the pile reaches 2 to 3 feet high.
Soak the pile at its start and water periodically; its consistency should be that of a damp (not wet) sponge.
Punch holes in the sides of the pile or push 1—to 2-foot lengths of hollow pipe into them to add air to the interior.
Your compost pile should start cooking within a week or so. Check the temperature of the pile with a compost thermometer or an old kitchen thermometer. A temperature of 110°F to 140°F (43°C to 60°C) is desirable. If you have no heat or insufficient heat, add nitrogen in the form of soft green ingredients or organic fertilizer.
Once a week, or as soon as the center starts to cool down, turn the pile. Move materials from the center of the pile to the outside. (For usable compost in 1 to 3 months, turn it every other week; for finished compost within a month, turn it every couple of days.)
See our new video on making super-fast compost!
2. Cold (or “Passive”) Composting
Cold, or passive, composting requires less effort than hot composting. You essentially let a pile of organic matter build and decompose, using the same types of ingredients as you would in a hot compost pile. The difference is that you don’t spend time turning the pile or carefully managing the ratio of greens to browns.
Cold composting requires less effort from the gardener, but the decomposition takes substantially longer—a year or more!
Making a Cold Compost Pile
To cold compost, simply create a pile of organic materials that you add to as you find or accumulate them. If possible, alternate layers of browns and greens, mixing in a few shovelfuls of garden soil, too. Since they’ll take longer to break down, bury kitchen scraps in the pile’s center to deter curious insect and animal pests.
NOTE: Avoid adding weeds or diseased plant materials to a cold compost pile, as the pile will not reach the high temperatures capable of killing weed seeds and diseases. (In fact, weeds may germinate in a cold pile.)
3. Vermicomposting (Composting with Worms)
Yet another composting method is something called “vermicomposting,” which employs worms to do the hard work of breaking down your organic waste and scraps. Vermicomposting is probably the most space-saving composting method since it can be done in something as small as a 10-gallon plastic tub. Getting a vermicomposting system started is the hardest part since you’ll need to buy materials and get yourself a sufficient number of worms to begin with (and not all worms are suitable!), but after that, all it takes to maintain a vermicomposting system is feeding it regularly with kitchen scraps.
If you don’t have a lot of space and mainly want to compost kitchen scraps, vermicomposting could be the composting method for you. Learn more about vermicomposting here!
Composting Problems and Solutions
Composting doesn’t have to be messy, stinky, or complicated, but sometimes problems do arise. Usually, it’s easy to get your compost pile back on track.
What Should I Do If My Compost Is Too Wet?
Too much green matter can result in slimy, wet compost piles. Avoid soggy piles by alternating wetter ingredients (such as fresh grass clippings) with drier and more fibrous ingredients (such as dry leaves, cardboard, and woodier crop residue). The resulting mix should be damp but not sodden. You can also sprinkle wood ash onto your heap but, importantly, it must be wood ash and not coal ash.
Why Does My Compost Smell Bad?
If a foul odor emanates from your compost bin or pile, flip the compost to introduce more air. Mixing the compost not only gives it plenty of air but results in a finer end product that is easier to spread. A good compost heap has a slightly sweet compost-y smell. If it smells sour or rotten, it either has too many greens or is too wet.
How Do I Keep Pests Away From My Compost Pile?
Avoid cooked food waste and animal products like meat and dairy, which attract rats and other pests. Try burying veggie scraps or other food waste in the center of your pile so that it’s not as accessible to pests. If rodents are a problem, ease off adding potato peelings, which are a favorite snack.
Can I Compost Weeds?
Composting weeds is fine as long as the weeds haven’t yet set seed. A hot compost pile should be able to cook the seeds to make them inert, but it’s still a risk. In any case, avoid invasive perennial weeds such as bindweed and black swallow-wort—these are better off disposed of in the trash!
See the video on how to fix composting problems.
Take the plunge and get composting! You’ll feel great doing it. Or, if you’re already composting, share your tips for supercharging your compost!
Enjoy this video? Find more videos, tips, and techniques to grow your own food!
Catherine Boeckmann loves nature, stargazing, and gardening so it’s not surprising that she and The Old Farmer’s ĂŰĚŇÁµČË found each other. She leads digital content for the ĂŰĚŇÁµČË website, and is also a certified master gardener in the state of Indiana. Read More from Catherine Boeckmann
Cardboard can be composted as parts of your “browns,” since it’s a paper product and contains carbon. For the best results, cut or tear boxes into small pieces, as they will break down a lot faster than large sheets. Also be sure to remove all tape, staples, or other non-biodegradeable materials from the boxes before tossing them in the compost pile.
I started composting kitchen scraps in an older wheelbarrow, I have a blender which I use to chop the goods nice and fine with water, drain using an old sieve into a bucket, use the water elsewhere, maybe you have a yard waste pile, and put the chewed up contents into the wheel barrow that has browns, and some potting soil in, small sticks etc. lift and mix with a pitch fork the food stuff disappears quickly , if it gets too full I then place some into a compost bin to finish or a garden spot where I will be needing it , and continue the wheelbarrow proccess. fast, easy and very nearly odour free cover with a plywood cover on rainy days so it doesn't get too wet. I do it this way because of the odours eminating from a large compost and how difficult it becomes to try and keep it mixed and all the contents balanced. don't do that part right and it's a mess. as well it attracts rodents etc. I keep thinking about trying to make a video about it . because it is so efficiant.
I compost just about everything that's organic. However, I'm so wary of tomato fungus that no part of my tomato plants go in the compost bin. I don't believe my pile burns hot enough to destroy those spores and I don't want to take the risk.
I love all the composting instructions that seem to assume we all have a large quantity of "stuff" to compost all at once. "Pile it up together, in these proportions, keep it somewhat moist, turn regularly, and voila! perfect compost!" Except for autumn leaves, I expect most people are like me, I have food prep "stuff" to add almost every day. So I keep a large plastic coffee canister by the kitchen sink. Peels, cores, oops-that-lettuce-is-past-its-prime, tea bags, coffee grounds (WITH the filter), dead leaves from houseplants - you get the idea. When it's full (1-3 days) I carry it out to the compost "bin" which is a 30-gal plastic can that split slightly on the bottom. I usually layer in some grass clippings that have been drying in the sun for a couple days. I rinse the coffee canister and add that to the barrel. Now and then I turn the garbage can on its side and roll it around a few times, which is a technique I found in another ĂŰĚŇÁµČË article, and works surprisingly well to "stir" the pile.
I'm about to shut down for the winter - the compost cooks great in the summer, but is pretty inactive in the winter here in TN (I would expect even worse results in a colder climate). Last year I turned the barrel top down into the garden and let it sit like that for the winter. In the spring I had a small pile to till into the garden. Lesson learned last year - grapefruit halves don't degrade! Previous years lead me to exclude banana peels, and really fresh grass clippings, both of which get slimy quickly and take forever to proceed. I also don't bother with eggshells as they stay intact - I'm sure they're a useful addition to the soil, but I don't want the bother of grinding them up.
When I restart in the spring, I'll start with at least 6" of small twigs and tree trimmings. They help aerate the pile to start with, and by the end of the process they disappear too.
I drink a lot of tea, especially at work (until I retired!). I collected used tea bags at work in a gallon jug, brought them home and forked them into the compost pile every couple of months. I rarely saw ANY residue from the previous additions. A lot of what I drink is tagless, and those brands definitely do NOT use plastic mesh. But even the brands that have strings and labels disappeared completely. Well, I suppose I could have filtered the finished compost looking for the tiny staples that attach the string to the bag and the label but I've never thought that was worth the effort.
If I found plasticized tea bags in my compost, I expect I would have thrown them away in the future, the amount of tea leaves involved are not worth the effort (to me!) to dismantle the tea bag for my compost. Also, I might just change brands :-)
Hi, I have a few questions. Is it natural to have mold or fungi in the compost since they decompose? Also do I have to sterilize the compose before using in my garden, like I have heard you heat up soil to kill bacteria that might cause disease to plants? Thank you for the help I have learned a lot!
Hi! I've had a lot of experience with hot composting, but I'm farely new to cold composting.... A couple of questions:
1. How often should a pile be turned?
2. Does it have to be kept a certain temperature? Is it okay for it to be in the sun?
3. Is there an issue with putting too much food waste? My idea is that food would be put in every day. Could it be buried or should greens and browns go on top every time?
4. If your placing new in every day how is it ever ready?
There really is little that you need to do when cold composting. This is essentially a “wait for it to rot” method. Turn the pile or mix it when you add new ingredients. There is no particular temperature to achieve or exceed; let nature take its course. If you make your pile one of primarily food waste, it could be a slimy rotting mess. (Ever seen food rot in a bag or container without benefit of browns or greens?) It would be better to add natural ingredients as you would a hot compost (see the lists above in both the hot/cold sections). Certainly some of it will be “ready” before other of it (this might be on the bottom or on the side) simply because the older portions will have had more time to rot. If you have an abundance of compostibles, it might be worth having more than one pile. Then you will have a better track of what’s ready when.