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How to Grow Cantaloupe Plants: The Complete Guide

Botanical Name
Cucumis melo
Plant Type
Fruit
Sun Exposure
Full Sun
Soil pH
Slightly Acidic to Neutral

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Planting, Growing, and Harvesting Cantaloupes

Catherine Boeckmann

A juicy slice of a ripe cantaloupe is what summer is all about! This heat-loving melon has a relatively long growing season, making it especially well-suited for southern gardeners. Here鈥檚 how to grow and care for cantaloupes.

About Cantaloupes

Cantaloupes are a type of melon with a tan-green rind. Typically, the rind is covered in a spiderweb-like pattern, though some varieties may also be striped. Inside, the flesh is bright orange and sweet. Their growing requirements are similar to that of other popular melons, such as watermelons and honeydew melons.

Cantaloupes vs. Muskmelons

Oddly enough, the melon that is commonly referred to as a 鈥渃antaloupe鈥 in North America is not actually a true cantaloupe, which is more common in Europe. In fact, our 鈥渃antaloupes鈥 are a type of muskmelon. (True cantaloupe has a rough, warty rind and is not widely grown or commercially available in the US and Canada.)

In North America, the names 鈥渕uskmelon鈥 and 鈥渃antaloupe鈥 are used interchangeably, but we will refer to this fruit simply as 鈥渃antaloupe鈥 on this page to avoid confusion!

Cantaloupes sliced

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Planting

Plant in a spot that gets full sun (6-8 hours of direct sunlight per day). To produce the best melons, the plants need all the light they can get. Plus, the afternoon sun will dry off leaves, reducing the risk of fungal diseases that comes with wet foliage.

Cantaloupes do best in well-draining soil that鈥檚 a mix between loamy and sandy. (Growing the plants in raised rows鈥攁ka 鈥渉ills鈥濃攅nsures good drainage.) Amend soil with aged manure or compost before planting. Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.

Mulching the planting site with black plastic will serve multiple purposes: it will warm the soil ahead of planting, hinder weed growth, and keep developing fruits clean.

When to Plant Cantaloupes

  • Cantaloupes may be started from seed or purchased as young plants from a nursery. In colder regions, starting with young plants is recommended, as it will give you a head start on the growing season.
  • Starting from seed:
    • If you are in a colder region, start seeds indoors 4 to 6 weeks before your last spring frost date. Cantaloupe vines are very tender and should not be transplanted until all danger of frost has passed and soil temperatures remain above 60掳F (16掳C).
    • If you live in a warmer climate, you may direct sow seeds outdoors as soon as the soil temperature warms to at least 60掳F (16掳C).

How to Plant Cantaloupes

  • Plant seeds 1 inch deep, 18 inches apart, in hills (or hilled rows) about 3 feet apart.
  • If you have limited space, vines can be trained up a support, such as a trellis.

Cantaloupes growing

Growing

  • If a soil test indicates that nutrients are lacking, fertilize with a standard liquid fertilizer when vines start growing and spreading. Later on, avoid nitrogen-heavy fertilizers, as too much nitrogen can result in lots of foliage and less fruit.
  • Row covers are a good way to keep pests like squash bugs and vine borers at bay.
  • Watering is key. While the plants are growing, blooming, and setting fruit, they need about 2 inches per square foot of water (about 1.5 gallons) per week.
    • Water in the morning, and try to avoid wetting the leaves, as wet foliage encourages fungal and other diseases.
    • If possible, use drip irrigation to keep plants consistently and evenly watered.
    • Mulching around the plants can help to retain moisture.
    • Reduce watering once fruits are growing. Hot, dry weather produces the sweetest melons.
    • If you’ve had an exceptional amount of rainfall during the ripening stage, this can cause bland fruit.
  • Once fruit begins to grow, prune end buds off vines. Your plants may produce fewer melons, but they will be larger and of better quality.
  • Vines produce male and female flowers separately on the same plant. They often begin producing male flowers several weeks before the females appear. (Don鈥檛 be discouraged when the first blooms do not produce fruit.)
    • As with other cucurbits, melon flowers require pollination to set fruit, so be kind to the bees! Here’s how to pollinate flowers yourself to increase yields (squash flowers are shown as an example, but the principle is the same for melons).
  • If your muskmelons taste bland, the trouble could be a lack of magnesium in sandy soil. Sweeten the fruit by spraying the vines with this solution: Dissolve 6 1/2 tablespoons of Epsom salts and 3 1/3 tablespoons of borax in 5 gallons of water. Spray the foliage when the vines begin to 鈥渞un鈥 and again when the fruit is about two inches in diameter.

Types

  • 鈥楢尘产谤辞蝉颈补鈥 鈥 85 days to maturity. Among the sweetest varieties.
  • 鈥楢迟丑别苍补鈥 鈥 70-80 days to maturity. Early variety that produces large, 5-6 pound fruits. 
  • 鈥楬ale鈥檚 Best Jumbo鈥 鈥 80-90 days to maturity. Produces 3-pound, aromatic melons.
  • 鈥楳innesota Midget鈥 鈥 70-80 days to maturity. Early variety well-suited for gardens in colder regions. Produces 1-pound, sweetly flavored melons.
  • 鈥楤ush Star鈥 鈥 90 days to maturity. Bush variety suits gardeners with limited space.

Harvesting

How and When to Harvest Cantaloupes

  • When rinds begin to change from green to tan or yellow, the melon is typically ripe enough to pick. Be careful not to pick too early, however.
  • Look for a crack in the stem where it attaches to the fruit. This is a sign of ripeness as well. The fruit should be easy to separate from the vine, but if they fall off by themselves, they are usually overripe.
  • Harvest melon when vines are dry, and be careful not to damage them.
  • Melons will soften after harvesting, but will not continue to sweeten off the vine.
  • Cantaloupe can be stored uncut for 5 or 6 days. If cut, they can last in the refrigerator for about 3 days, wrapped tightly in plastic.
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Wit and Wisdom

  • Cantaloupe was named for Cantalupo, a former papal villa near Rome.

Pests/Diseases

Cantaloupe Pests and Diseases
Pest/DiseaseTypeSymptomsControl/Prevention
AphidsInsectMisshapen/yellow leaves; distorted flowers; leaf drop; sticky 鈥渉oneydew鈥 (excretion) on leaves; sooty, black moldKnock off with water spray; apply insecticidal soap; inspect new plants carefully; use slow-release fertilizers; avoid excess nitrogen; encourage aphid pests such as lacewings, ladybugs, spiders
Cucumber beetlesInsectHoles in leaves/flowers; rasped fruit; plants stunted/die; may transmit bacterial wilt (Bacterial wilt signs: wilting; plants die; ends of cut stems, when pressed together for 10 seconds and pulled apart, release stringy, white sap)Handpick; mulch heavily; use row covers; destroy plants infected with bacterial wilt
Cucumber mosaic virusVirusStunting; mottled green/yellow/white pattern or ringed spots on leaves/fruit; distorted leaf growth; warts on fruitDestroy infected plants; choose resistant varieties and certified virus-free seed; use row covers; disinfect tools; weed; control aphids; use mulch
Fusarium wiltFungusPlants wilt (sometimes on just one side) in daytime; leaves turn yellow (lower ones first); later, entire plant wilts/dies; stunting; stem cross section reveals brown discolorationDestroy infected plants; avoid excessive nitrogen; in acidic soils, raise pH to 7.0; choose resistant varieties; disinfect tools; rotate crops
Powdery mildewFungusTypically, white spots on upper leaf surfaces expand to flour-like coating over entire leaves; foliage may yellow/die; distortion/stunting of leaves/flowersDestroy infected leaves or plants; choose resistant varieties; plant in full sun, if possible; ensure good air circulation; spray plants with 1 teaspoon baking soda dissolved in 1 quart water; destroy crop residue
Squash vine borers (moth & larvae)InsectLarge, wrinkled larvae become orange-red/black, wasp-like, daytime moths; larvae bore into vines; vines wilt suddenly; plants die; mushy area and/or green to orange-yellow, sawdust-like excrement on/near base of plant stemIf detected early, slit infested stem lengthwise halfway to remove borer(s), then bury the cut in moist soil to encourage rooting; wrap seedling stems in aluminum foil collar; catch moths with yellow sticky traps; use row covers if no pests previously, but uncover before flowering; destroy crop residue; rotate crops

Recipes

Grilled Cantaloupe With Prosciutto
Fruit
About The Author

Catherine Boeckmann

Catherine Boeckmann loves nature, stargazing, and gardening so it鈥檚 not surprising that she and The Old Farmer鈥檚 蜜桃恋人 found each other. She leads digital content for the 蜜桃恋人 website, and is also a certified master gardener in the state of Indiana. Read More from Catherine Boeckmann
 

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Comments

Check out our pest page on Squash Vine Borers for pictures and more information on these pests: /pest/squash-vine-borer 

David Stickel (not verified)

6 years 3 months ago

Should I put something under the fruit, like cardboard while fruit is still growing, like watermelon?

Hi David,

Yes, putting cardboard or a towel or tarp under the fruit while it’s growing can help to protect the underside, but it’s not necessary. 

Marcella Constancio (not verified)

6 years 4 months ago

I love in Texas it's not hear all the time we have a farmer's market and one gentleman has the sweetest cantaloupe I've ever eaten and his watermelon is excellent the hot sun he is from Pecos Tx!!! I am going to use his seeds thanks for sharing your information!!!!

John (not verified)

6 years 5 months ago

I bought a delicious cantaloupe (musk melon) from Fairway. It was so good I decided to try to grow my own and gathered the seeds, dried them, stored them in a dark space and planted last year in peat pots and then to small garden. Unbelievable - I got a 14 lb for the first one. The rest were 6 & 7 lbr鈥檚. All amazingly delicious. This year I went to my same seeds stored in the same place and planted the same way in pots and out of sunlight to no avail. After 4 weeks I broke open peat pot(s) and none spouted. Can seeds go bad? Any ideas? Thanks

That sounds like it was quite a yield last year! Too bad about this year’s seeds. Seeds do go bad eventually (unless frozen and stored professionally), but cantaloupe seeds typically last longer than one or two years if stored properly. 

This year, did you plant seeds from last year’s fruit or from the year before? If you planted seeds from last year’s fruit, it’s possible that the plants cross-pollinated with another member of the cucurbit family, producing unviable seeds. However, if you planted that same seeds this year that you have previously had success with, perhaps they were not stored properly or were simply bad seeds. After drying the seeds completely, store them in an air-tight container in a fridge or cool cellar.

Debbie (not verified)

7 years 3 months ago

We have a melon vine which has produced a few melons, however the melons are cracking open from the base of the fruit before ripening. What causes this? Can we prevent cracking on future melons?

Hi Debbie,

Melons crack due to stress, usually from soil that holds too much water or from inconsistent watering. In the fall, add compost to where you will grow melons next year to make for a well-draining mix. Also, melons enjoy pH of 6.0 to 6.5, so testing the soil never hurts. Plant next year’s melons in mounds 6 to 8 inches high to help with drainage as well. For watering, try to water 1 to 2 inches a week when there is no rain.   

naveenalatha shastry (not verified)

8 years ago

thank u for the good and point by point information. i am living in south India, Karnataka state. whether it is advisable to grow snap melon in dry hilly area with little water ? which month is suitable to plant seeds? here rain starts at the beginning of june. pl advise me which verity is good . mulching is necessary in dry hill area? watering once in a week is sufficient?

Gretchen in Iowa (not verified)

8 years 1 month ago

Is there a temperature at which muskmelons will no longer ripen? We are having highs in the 70's this October, with lows in the 50's. But a low of 37 is predicted for one evening later this week, followed by a return to the 50's lows/70's highs. Will temps in the mid/upper 30's stop the ripening process (in which case I'll pick my melons and hope for the best) or will they continue ripening up until frost?