蜜桃恋人

How to Grow Rhubarb Plants: The Complete Guide

Botanical Name
Rheum rhabarbarum
Plant Type
Vegetable
Sun Exposure
Full Sun
Part Sun
Soil pH
Neutral to Slightly Alkaline
Slightly Acidic to Neutral
Hardiness Zone
3
4
5
6
7
8

Also receive the 蜜桃恋人 Daily newsletter including gardening tips, weather, astronomical events, and more.

No content available.

Planting, Growing, and Harvesting Rhubarb

Catherine Boeckmann

What grows for ten years or more, suffers from almost no pests, and is refreshingly easy to care for? It’s rhubarb! This perennial vegetable has tart-flavored ruby or green stems used to make pies, crumbles, cakes, jams, and sauces. Learn how to plant, grow, and pick rhubarb correctly.

About Rhubarb

Rhubarb originally came from Asia. It was brought to Europe in the 1600s and to America shortly thereafter. It thrives in areas with a cooler climate, making it popular in northern gardens. Rhubarb is easy to grow but needs a dormancy period to thrive and produce an abundance of huge stalks. Rhubarb does best where the average temperature falls below 40潞F (4掳C) in the winter and below 75潞F (24掳C) in the summer.

The stalks are the only edible part of the rhubarb plant. These have a rich, tart flavor when cooked. The leaves of the rhubarb plant are toxic. They contain an irritant called oxalic acid, so be sure that they are not ingested.

What’s lovely about rhubarb is that it’s a perennial: A healthy plant will remain productive for 10 years or more. For that reason, rhubarb should be planted in its own space in any corner of the garden where it can grow undisturbed. Rhubarb grows well in soil amended with plenty of well-rotted manure or compost; this has inspired some gardeners to plant it near their compost piles!

With its ruby or green stems and umbrella-like leaves, rhubarb also adds height and structure to your garden, along with a splash of gorgeous color that will return year in and year out. 

Read Next

Planting

Rhubarb grows best in full sun but will tolerate partial shade.

Choose a site with soil that is well-draining and fertile. Good drainage is essential, as rhubarb will rot if kept too wet. Mix compost, rotted manure, or anything high in organic matter into the soil. Rhubarb plants are heavy feeders and need this organic matter. Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.

Rhubarb gets big! It can grow to 2 to 3 feet tall and wide. Make sure you choose a site where it won鈥檛 be crowded. 

When to Plant Rhubarb

  • Rhubarb can be planted in late fall or early spring.
    • Plant rhubarb crowns after dormancy have set in in the fall, and you鈥檒l have rhubarb cropping in the spring!
    • In spring, plant crowns when the soil is workable, when the roots are still dormant, and before growth begins (or as plants are just beginning to leaf out). If you have a temperature gauge, soil temperature should be 50掳F minimum.

How to Plant Rhubarb

  • Plant 1-year-old rhubarb crowns, which you can find at a garden center, or nursery, or order online. Plants will be sold as bare-rooted specimens or young plants already growing in pots, ready for transplanting. (Rhubarb can be grown from seed, but this is not recommended.)
  • Before planting, eliminate all perennial weeds in the planting site.
  • Dig large, bushel-basket-size holes.
  • Space rhubarb plants about 2 to 4 feet apart and 3 to 4 feet between rows.
  • Plant crowns so the eyes are about 2 inches below the soil surface with buds facing up.
  • Water well at the time of planting.

Check out this video to learn more about how to plant rhubarb:

Growing

Overcrowding is a common problem with rhubarb and can lead to subpar growth. Dig and split rhubarb roots every 3 to 4 years. Divide when plants are dormant in early spring (or late fall). Divisions should have at least one large bud on them. 

  • Mulch generously with a heavy layer of straw to retain moisture and discourage weeds.
  • Water your plant well and consistently. Rhubarb needs sufficient moisture, especially during the hot, dry summer days. 
  • Remove seed stalks as soon as they appear, as they will only drain energy from the plant that could be used to produce stalks or roots.
  • Each spring, apply a light sprinkling of a fertilizer (10-10-10) when the ground is thawing or has just thawed. See your local frost dates.
  • In the fall, remove all plant debris. Once your ground freezes, it鈥檚 best to cover rhubarb with 2 to 4 inches of organic mulch, preferably well-rotted compost. By adding nitrogen to the soil, you鈥檙e preparing the rhubarb plants for a good spring season.

Rhubarb leaf

Types

These common varieties have attractive red stalks and excellent growers: 

  • 鈥楥补苍补诲补&苍产蝉辫;搁别诲’
  • 鈥楥谤颈尘蝉辞苍&苍产蝉辫;搁别诲’
  • 鈥楳补肠顿辞苍补濒诲’
  • 鈥榁补濒别苍迟颈苍别’

In addition to the previous four, there is a reliable, green-stalked cultivar named:

  • 鈥榁颈肠迟辞谤颈补’

Harvesting

Do NOT harvest any stalks during the first growing season. Harvest sparingly in the second year. This allows your plants to become properly established.

  • After a plant’s third year, the harvest period (rhubarb season!) runs 8 to 10 weeks long, lasting through mid-summer.
  • Harvest stalks when they are 12 to 18 inches long and at least 3/4-inch in diameter. If the stalks become thin, stop harvesting; the plant’s food reserves are low.
  • Grab the base of the stalk and pull it away from the plant with a gentle twist. If this doesn’t work, you can cut the stalk at the base with a sharp knife. To prevent the spread of disease, be sure to sanitize the knife before cutting. Discard the leaves.
  • Always leave at least two stalks per plant to ensure continued production. You may have a bountiful harvest for well over ten years without replacing your rhubarb plants.
  • It was once believed that the entire rhubarb plant became toxic as summer temperatures rose. This isn’t true, although summer-harvested stalks usually have a tougher texture than those picked in the spring. Nevertheless, after mid-summer (July), it’s best to leave stalks on the plant to allow them to gather energy for next year’s growth.

How to Store Rhubarb

Cut the rhubarb stalks and refrigerate in a covered container. Or, tightly wrap stalks in plastic or aluminum foil and refrigerate. Rhubarb can be kept fresh in the refrigerator for a couple of weeks.

Cut rhubarb stalks into pieces, place them in a covered container or zip-type plastic bag, and put them in the freezer. Frozen rhubarb will last about a year.

Gardening Products

Wit and Wisdom

Rhubarb has many other uses, from medicinal to cosmetic. See how to naturally lighten your hair with rhubarb. 

Pests/Diseases

Pests and diseases are rarely an issue with rhubarb, but they may be affected by the following problems.

Rhubarb Pests and Diseases
Pest/DiseaseTypeSymptomsControl/Prevention
Botrytis (gray mold)FungusVaries; yellow/ brown/gray spots with water-soaked margins on leaves/flowers; gray mold; buds remain closed; stem lesions; wilt/rot; scorched appearance (鈥渇ire鈥) in some plantsDestroy infected parts/severely infected plants (do not compost); remove plant debris regularly; disinfect tools; good air circulation/sunlight; avoid overhead watering; prevent plant stress/injury; weed; rotation
Fungal leaf spotFungusVaries; leaf spots on lower leaves enlarge and turn brown/black; fuzzy growth or pustules in lesions; disease progresses upward; leaves dieDestroy infected leaves/ severely infected plants (do not compost); remove plant debris regularly; disinfect tools; resistant varieties; good air circulation; avoid overhead watering
Phytophthora crown and root rotOomyceteLeaves discolor/ wilt; dieback; oozing cankers near base; reddish brown discoloration of inner bark/wood; roots rot; plants slow-growing/stunted/dieDestroy infected plants and surrounding soil (do
not compost); prune out branch cankers; remove plant debris regularly; plant resistant varieties; prevent plant stress/injury; provide good drainage/do not overwater
Rhubarb curculioInsectWeevil-like beetle that bores into stalks/crowns; notches on stalks/leaves; holes in stalks leak sap; plants wilt/decayHandpick adults (appear in mid-May); destroy nearby host plants (sunflowers, thistle, dock) in mid-summer (July)
Slugs/snailsMolluskIrregular holes in leaves; slimy secretion on plants/soil; young stems 鈥渄isappear鈥Handpick; avoid thick bark mulch; use copper plant collars; avoid overhead watering; lay boards on soil in evening, in morning lift and dispose of pests in hot, soapy water; drown in deep container of 1/2 inch of beer or of sugar water and yeast sunk to ground level; apply 1-inch-wide strip of diatomaceous earth

Recipes

Apple-Rhubarb Crunch
Rhubarb Chutney Recipe
Rhubarb Nut Bread
Strawberry-Rhubarb Pie
Blueberry-Rhubarb Jam
Rhubarb Upside-Down Cake

Cooking Notes

Check out our list of best rhubarb recipes to put your fresh rhubarb to good use! Plus, learn how to make a rhubarb tonic.

Vegetables
About The Author

Catherine Boeckmann

Catherine Boeckmann loves nature, stargazing, and gardening so it鈥檚 not surprising that she and The Old Farmer鈥檚 蜜桃恋人 found each other. She leads digital content for the 蜜桃恋人 website, and is also a certified master gardener in the state of Indiana. Read More from Catherine Boeckmann
 

More Like This

Comments

Joan (not verified)

7 years 3 months ago

I've had rhubarb for years (stalks red about half way up, then green). Seeing the beautiful red stalks from top to bottom in catalog pictures, I decided I wanted some. Ordered (Victoria) and planted last year. Plant looks beautiful--multiple stalks and quite healthy. Only problem: the stalks are green from head to toe; maybe a hint of pink at the base of some--not at all like the picture in the catalog. So. . . does it take time to develop the red color? Does it need some specific nutrients to develop the color? Did they send me the wrong variety? Or is this just one of those "1%" or such that don't develop the color?

Sarah (not verified)

6 years 7 months ago

You can make your Green Rhubarb red by blanching it. Some people put a dustbin over the whole plant so it's dark for a few days. That turns the stalks red. But I think the green Rhubarb has the best flavor. Not quite as pretty, but it's has a better flavor when stewed and sweetened than the red varieties.

Victoria is variously described as the white, shaded with red, or speckled variety. Crimson Cherry, Red Cherry, MacDonald, and Ruby are among those that are reliably red. As for the wrong plant? This may be a better question for your source.

Kelly (not verified)

7 years 5 months ago

Hi. I've scanned through the comments here but have yet to see remarks re: red leaf fungus. In short, most info says: discard the plant and roots (properly) and don't plant rhubarb in that soil ever again. Once it's in the soil that area is done for replanting. It has been stated (Phytopth.ca) that it has killed up to 50% of crops in Canada.
We had an amazing patch. We needed to move it and some of the plants ended up in planters and in an area poor for rhubarb (well-meaning partner thought these were good spots). The weakened plants developed this problem at some point - unbeknownst to us - and were put back in the ground in a new area but with the same ideal conditions (soil, sun etc.). It was there they fully displayed the red leaf and began to really suffer. I identified the issue and have bought new plants and planted them in a different area, about 20' from the previous bed. My partner and I are not in agreement about this, as I don't think this is far enough away, but - I will wait and see. The bad part is if the new patch succumbs to the red leaf, now we will have 2 areas that we cannot plant rhubarb.
QUESTION: any ideas on soil treatment for this problem?? So far I cannot find a thing. Thanks.
QUESTION: any tips in addition to removal and destroying the deseased plants w regards to control and avoidance? Obviously keeping the plants as heathly as possible is key - but I am looking for experiential tips.
We are in zone 3 and as said - previously had an amazing patch - so we know rhubarb likes our location!
Thanks!

Wow! You have done your research! Red leaf, also called bacterial soft rot, is caused by a bacteria called Erwinia rhapontici. As you have found, there doesn’t seem to be too much available on controls. It appears that there are several host plants, so you may want to be sure not to grow those in the same area that was infected by the diseased rhubarb. How far away you need to plant healthy plants might depend on the vector; if it is by flying insects, then 20 feet may not be enough. Strains do not seem to be host-specific, meaning that they can attack more than one type of plant. Amaranthus hybridus (a weed) seems to be a host, and the bacteria was found on roman chamomile, peppermint, and lemon balm; there are several others. One vector is thought to possibly be insects—so controlling them may help prevent the spread to other areas/plants. Some sites specifically mention controlling eelworms. One source suggested removing infected soil, but that might not be practical. Be sure to maintain good sanitation, and remove plant debris and weeds around the area; the pathogen can overwinter on infected plant tissue. A few sources mention that using Bacillus subtilis looks promising; I don’t know if this is available in a product registered for use on rhubarb in Canada, but here is some information:

The following scientific article from 2003 provides some information on the disease that might be useful (it contains a list of host plants):

Hope this helps!

Lisa (not verified)

7 years 5 months ago

We live in the midwest and have had our rhubarb for approximately 5 years. Last year we had a great crop. But this year it looked really great then we had a lot of rain and the wind blew and now it is brown and yellow and the stalks look like they are woody, ( I can send a picture if you like) Usually it is putting off seed pods by now, we are harvesting and freezing it and making rhubarb pie by now! What happened?

Steve (not verified)

7 years 5 months ago

I'm relatively new to growing rhubarb and live in SE PA. I planted 1 plant from a 1 gallon pot into a larger whiskey barrel style container. I planted it in Miracle Grow moisture control soil. It was doing great for a while putting up quite a few new stalks after. Earlier this week, we had a heat wave. I made sure to give the container some water at night (watering can) after the sun was off it, but since the heat wave, I had 1 leaf yellow and then die now followed by another leaf that has gone completely yellow... The stalks are all relatively thin, but I know this is a new plant and didn't want to go crazy freaking out about it, but I also don't want it to die. The plant gets full morning sun and then part shade/part sun in the afternoon when it is the hottest out. Being that it's in a container rather than in the ground (yard constraints), I thought it would be better than being in full sun. I checked the pot last night and it isn't light, but it isn't heavy like the soil is having difficulty draining (what a normal barrel should feel like). Could someone help me figure out what I need to do to get my plant healthier again? Do I need to give it more food? More/less water? Thanks in advance and please help

You might have a couple of things going on: 1) transplanting any plant causes a shock to its system. Think about it: It’s happy, has everything it needs, then it gets moved/uprooted/relocated to an entirely different place. There is an adjustment period. 2) Rhubarb peaks鈥攔eaches harvest stage鈥攁t about this time (late spring). So it was coming into its own, then it was moved and it has to shift its energy and attention to the new鈥攅r鈥攄igs. Some plants take a move harder then others. 3) About the soil: Nothing makes rhubarb happier than good-quality animal manure. If you do not have any in the mix, find a way to add/substitute it for what’s in there. Finally, rhubarb likes/needs sun. Water is important, but it needs to drain/run off (not sit in a puddle). Finally (again), the rhubarb is not terribly picky about pH (soil acidity); it should be no lower than 5 but is better at around 6.0 to 6.8. Even with all of this you may not have a crop this year but you certainly may have one next year.

We hope this helps. (Oh, rhubarb likes winter, too. So leave it out in the cold and snow!)

Dear 蜜桃恋人 staff, I planted the rhubarb a month or more earlier than the yellowing... so I don't think it would have been a transplanting related issue. I'll take the other issues into consideration. THanks so much. I know it doesn't like being transplanted... but if it's in a barrel container, can I move the container itself or would that stress it out more?

Thanks

Steve

Norma (not verified)

7 years 5 months ago

We have just moved to a condo where I have brought my pot with rhubarb. I have chives & rosemary around the rhubarb plant. We have always had rhubarb in a pot to protect it from the animals like deer but now something is eating the leaves! Sprayed the leaves with water & soap. What could be eating my rhubarb? The plant is the strawberry variety.