Cherry trees are gorgeous all-year long, from their spring blossoms to their luscious fruit in midsummer. Learn how to grow and harvest both sweet and tart cherries. Also, be sure to protect your cherries from bird damage!
About Cherries
Sweet cherries are the variety most often found in markets. They have a thick, rich, and almost plum-like texture. Sweet cherries grow in hardiness zones 5 to 7; they are self-sterile and best for an orchard or a large garden. You’ll need at least two or three trees, as they’ll need to pollinate each other. If space is limited, consider the dwarf, self-pollinating cultivar ‘Stella’.
Sour cherries are not usually eaten raw, but are widely used for preserves and other cooking uses. Sour cherries are much smaller than sweet cherries and all varieties are self-fertile. They grow in zones 4 to 6.
Cherry trees generally start bearing fruit in their fourth year; dwarf trees bear fruit a year earlier. One mature, standard-size tart or sweet cherry tree will produce 30 to 50 quarts of cherries each year; a dwarf tree, about 10 to 15 quarts.
Plant cherry trees in early spring or late fall (when the ground is soft and has a higher moisture content) in a sunny site with good air circulation and deep, well-drained soil. Apply mulch and water well. After flowering in a fruiting year, you’ll need to drape trees with wildlife-safe netting to protect the fruit from birds.
Plant cherry trees in a sunny site with good air circulation; avoid planting near larger trees or buildings that will shade the cherries. Ideally, cherry trees should get at least 6 hours of sunlight each day.
Cherry trees do best in deep, well-draining soil that has a pH of 6.0-7.0.
Space sweet cherries 35 to 40 feet apart; dwarfs, 5 to 10 feet apart. Space tart cherries 20 to 25 feet apart; dwarfs, 8 to 10 feet apart.
When to Plant Cherry Trees
Plant cherries in the late fall or early spring (when the ground is soft and has a higher moisture content).
When selecting sweet cherries, make sure the different varieties will pollinate each other.
How to Plant Cherry Trees
Trees on standard rootstock should be planted with the graft union a few inches below the soil level. Trees on dwarf rootstock should be planted with the graft union several inches above the soil level, which will prevent the graft from growing its own roots and bypassing the rootstock.
When planting fan-trained trees, construct the necessary supports before planting. Plant fans only 12 to 15 feet apart.
For bareroot trees, place the rootstock on a small mound of soil in the center of the planting hole, and spread the roots down and away, trying not to bend the roots. Backfill with soil.
For container-grown trees, first remove the rootball and set the tree on its side; cut through any pot-bound or encircled roots with shears. Don’t cover the top of the root-ball.
Check out this video to learn more about how to plant a bare–root fruit tree:
Growing
There is no difference in care between sour and sweet cherries.
Apply mulch around the tree to retain moisture, but leave several inches of bare earth around the trunk.
Drape netting over trees to protect the fruit from birds.
Water routinely in dry areas.
Thinning the fruit is not necessary for cherry trees, as they typically thin naturally in early summer.
Prune trees every year in late winter to encourage the growth of new fruiting wood. Don’t prune in the fall.
Fertilize early in spring with a low-nitrogen fertilizer (such as 5-10-10) a few weeks before trees start to flower, then fertilize as necessary (check soil fertility by testing the soil) until cherries are harvested. Do not fertilize after mid-summer, as new growth needs time to harden off before fall and winter.
Types
Sweet Cherries
Early - ‘Black Tartarian’
Midseason - ‘Bing’
Late - ‘Stella’
Sour Cherries
Early - ‘Early Richmond’
Midseason - ‘Montmorency’
Late - ‘Meteor’
Harvesting
Pick fruits only when FULLY ripe (dark red, black, yellow); the sugar content rises the few days before fully ripened.
Be ready to harvest within a week’s time. Eat or cook immediately.
Pick fruits when firm if they are to be frozen.
Be sure top pick with the cherry stem so you do not tear into the fruit, however, take care to lead the fruit spur to produce fruit next year.
Hand-picking may injure the shoots and cause infection; Cut the stalks with scissors.
Remember that cherry trees do not typically bear fruit until their fourth year. Thereafter, they should produce about 30 to 50 quarts of cherries each year.
Gardening Products
Wit and Wisdom
A cherry year, a merry year.
There is a famous myth that President George Washington cut down a cherry tree and then admitted his wrongdoing to his father. This myth was invented by a biographer of President Washington, who hoped to display his honesty. We still think it’s a great idea to commemorate President’s Day with a delicious cherry pie recipe!
Pests/Diseases
Birds are common pests, especially with sweet cherries (versus tarts). To avoid bird damage, you can drap nylon mesh netting over dwarf trees, but it’s difficult to cover the larger standard-size sweet cherry tree. Distracting objects such as pie pans can help but birds can used to them.
Another solution is to grow a fruit tree nearby that will ripen before and during the cherry season, such as mulberry trees. (Avoid planting ‘Illinois Everbearing’ mulberry which ripens too late.)
Other pests that attack cherries include fruit flies, apple maggots, peach tree borers, and caterpillars (specifically the larvae of the plum curculio). Ask your local garden center about approved sprays.
Brown rot and cherry leaf spot affect both tart and sweet cherries. Black knot and powdery mildew are potential problems for some areas.
Catherine Boeckmann loves nature, stargazing, and gardening so it’s not surprising that she and The Old Farmer’s found each other. She leads digital content for the website, and is also a certified master gardener in the state of Indiana. Read More from Catherine Boeckmann
Hi, Heather, You may be in luck: The Carmine Jewel dwarf is self-pollinating, which means, of course, that it does not need a companion. That said, sources suggest that planting another fruiting cherry near it will increase its (the Carmine Jewel’s) fruit production. We are finding conflicting information re the Nanking; that it does and does not need a pollinator. Perhaps you can consult your source on that point? We hope this helps.
I read that the term "cherry picking" comes from the idea that sample cherries were picked to show what trees were good and which were bad. Can an entire tree's harvest really be determined by only a few cherries?
Now, that’s an -y kind of question. We would say “cherry picking” is the act of picking only the best fruits and then making the assumption that all fruits are of equal quality. Sweet cherries are indeed tasted for maturity. We wouldn’t say all cherries are ready at exactly the same time, but you will likely be picking cherries every other day for a week.
Yes, a cherry should grow from a seed. However, growing a cherry tree from rootstock is the preferred method because it can take 10 years or more to get the first fruits from a cherry tree grown from seed. And planting a pit from a cherry purchased from a grocery store or farmer’s market isn’t recommended either because those cherries tend to be hybrid varieties, so you’d most certainly want an “heirloom” variety.
Hi, I live in NY, last year I purchased three Hanson's Bush Cherries. Planted one in ground and two in pots as I am not sure what would happened over NY winter. Did bring the two pots in to the house and took them out in spring. Thankfully all three came to life this spring.
Should I remove the blossoms in order for the plant to establish its root system better like strawberries, or leave the blossoms on.
If I leave the blossoms on, would it start producing this year.
The nursery where I purchased told me only that they bear fruit at early age.
Please let me know how to proceed since they are blossoming right now.
My dad ordered us a Lapins Cherry Tree that is scheduled to arrive around April 10. We live in Zone 5 and the last frost is around May 9. Is it OK to plant the cherry tree as soon as it arrives in April? Thank you!
If the tree is bare-root and dormant, plant it as soon as the ground is no longer frozen and the soil is workable. (This could be April or May, depending on the year.) Bare-root trees should be planted as soon as possible.
For potted trees, wait until after the threat of spring frost has passed to plant.
