蜜桃恋人

How to Grow Green Beans: The Complete Guide

Photo Credit
Brytta/Getty Images
Botanical Name
Phaseolus vulgaris
Plant Type
Vegetable
Sun Exposure
Full Sun
Soil pH
Slightly Acidic to Neutral
Bloom Time
Summer
Flower Color
White
Yellow

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Planting, Growing, and Harvesting Green Beans

Catherine Boeckmann

Growing green beans is so easy that they are often the first vegetable children learn how to grow! All green beans are incredibly productive, even in containers. Here’s how to plant, grow, and harvest green beans, and learn the upsides and downsides of bush versus pole varieties.

About Green Beans

All green beans (also called 鈥渟tring beans鈥 or 鈥渟nap beans鈥) are tender annuals. Though most green beans are indeed green, they also come in purple, red, yellow, and streaked varieties.

What’s the Difference Between Bush Beans and Pole Beans?

The main difference between the many types of green beans is whether their growing style is classified as 鈥渂ush鈥 or 鈥減ole.鈥

  • Bush beans grow compactly (reaching about two feet tall) and do not require extra support from a structure like a trellis. 
  • Pole beans, aka climbing beans, grow as climbing vines that may reach 10 to 15 feet tall and require a trellis or staking. Watch this video to learn how to support beans properly.

There are pros and cons to both types, of course:

  • Bush beans generally require less maintenance due to their size, but pole beans typically yield more beans for longer and are mostly disease-resistant.
  • Bush beans produce in veggies about 50 to 55 days; pole beans will take 55 to 65 days. 
  • Bush beans often come in all at once, so stagger your plantings every two weeks to get a continuous harvest. Pole beans need their vines to grow and will produce for a month or two if you keep harvesting.
Read Next

Planting

Beans grow best in well-draining soil with normal fertility and an acidic to neutral pH (6.0鈥7.0). They don鈥檛 typically need supplemental fertilizer because they fix their own nitrogen in the soil. However, particularly poor soil should still be amended with aged manure or compost in the fall prior to planting (or about a week before planting in the spring). 

Beans don鈥檛 like having their roots disturbed, so set up any supports for pole beans prior to planting. 

When to Plant Beans

  • Beans grow best when direct-seeded outdoors. Sow any time after the last spring frost date, when the soil has warmed to at least 55掳F (12掳C). Don鈥檛 plant too early, as cold, moist soil will delay germination and could cause the seeds to rot.
    • Tip: To get a head start on planting, place black plastic or landscaping fabric over your garden beds to warm the soil prior to sowing seeds.
  • Do not start green bean seeds indoors. Due to their fragile roots, they may not survive transplanting. Plus, they鈥檙e such fast growers that there鈥檚 no real advantage to starting them early indoors.

How to Plant Beans

  • Sow bush beans 1 inch deep and 2 inches apart in rows 18 inches apart.
  • Sow pole beans 1 inch deep, placing them around supports.
    • Tip: Plant pole and bush beans a little deeper in sandy soils, but not too deep. Seedlings cannot push through soil that is too deep, heavy, dense, packed, and/or mulched; they will break their 鈥渘ecks鈥 in trying to emerge.
  • For pole beans, set up trellises, stakes, or other supports prior to planting so that the plants鈥 fragile roots are not disturbed.
    • One option is to create a teepee: Tie three or four (or more) 7-foot-long bamboo poles or long, straight branches together at the top and splay the legs in a circle. Then, plant three or four seeds around each pole. As vines appear, train them to wind up the poles. For more stability, wrap string/wire around the poles about halfway up, encircling the tepee; this gives the vines something to grab.
    • Another easy support for them is a 鈥渃attle panel鈥濃攁 portable section of wire fence鈥16 feet long and 5 feet tall. The beans will climb with ease, and you won鈥檛 have to get into contorted positions to pick them. 
  • For a continued harvest that lasts all summer, sow seeds every 2 weeks. If you鈥檙e going to be away and unable to harvest, skip a planting. Beans do not wait for anyone!
  • Practice crop rotation (planting crops in different areas each year) to avoid the build-up of pests and diseases in one spot.

How to Grow Beans From Planting to Harvest

Growing

  • Mulch soil around bean plants to retain moisture; make sure that it is well-drained. Beans have shallow roots, so mulch keeps them cool.
  • Water regularly, about 2 inches per square foot per week. If you do not keep beans well watered, they will stop flowering. Water on sunny days so that foliage will not remain soaked, which could encourage disease.
  • If necessary, begin fertilizing after heavy bloom and the set of pods. Avoid using high-nitrogen fertilizer, or you will get lush foliage and few beans. A side dressing of compost or aged manure halfway through the growing season is a good alternative to liquid fertilizer.
  • Weed diligently but carefully to avoid disturbing the beans鈥 roots.
  • Pinch off the tops of pole bean vines when they reach the top of the support. This will force them to put energy into producing more pods instead.
  • In high heat, use row covers over young plants; hot weather can cause blossoms to drop from plants, reducing the harvest.
Green bean plants trained up stakes. Photo by fotolinchen/Getty Images.
Green bean plants trained up stakes. Photo by fotolinchen/Getty Images.

 

Growing Green Beans in Containers

You can also grow green beans in containers! An 8-inch-deep, 8-inch-wide container will hold one bush plant, while a 5-gallon pot will hold up to three bush or pole plants. For pole beans, plan to provide support in or immediately outside of the container. Fill the container with potting mix and rich compost. 

Beans grow best when direct-seeded (not transplanted) into the soil, whether it鈥檚 in a container or the ground. After all danger of frost has passed, sow into warm (55掳F or higher), moist soil. Put two beans into each hole between 1 and 11鈦2 inches deep. Eliminate the weaker one after germination by cutting the stem. (Do not allow two plants to coexist in one hole; neither will thrive.)

To care for your container of green beans, provide 6 to 8 hours of sun per day. Whenever the soil is dry, water to a depth of 1 to 2 inches. Fertilize with a low-nitrogen formula (5-10-10) diluted to half-strength to avoid excess foliage growth. Apply at planting time and when plants begin to flower.

Types

When it comes to green beans, the options are endless. Here are several types and varieties to consider:

  • Chinese (aka Asian) long beans (aka yardlong or asparagus beans): slender, 1- to 2-foot pods. Try 鈥極rient Wonder,鈥 鈥楻ed Noodle,鈥 or 鈥榊ardlong.鈥 All pole.
  • French green beans (aka filet or haricots verts): thin, tender, 3- to 5-inch pods. Try 鈥楥alima,鈥 鈥楳asai,鈥 or 鈥楳axibel鈥; in a container, plant 鈥楳ascotte.鈥 All bush.
  • Italian/Romano: wide, flat 6- to 8-inch pods even in the hottest summers. Try 鈥楨arly Bush Italian,鈥 extra-large-pod 鈥楯umbo,鈥 or 鈥楻oma II.鈥 All bush.
  • Purple beans: 5- to 6-inch pods are deep purple when raw and turn green when cooked. Try 鈥楢methyst,鈥 鈥楻oyal Burgundy,鈥 or 鈥榁elour.鈥 All bush.
  • Snap beans (aka string or stringless): slender, 5- to 7-inch pods. Try 鈥楤lue Lake 274鈥 (bush), heirloom 鈥楰entucky Wonder鈥 (bush or pole), or 鈥楶rovider鈥 (bush).
  • Yellow wax beans: 5- to 7-inch pods have a milder flavor than green varieties. Try stringless 鈥楥herokee鈥 (bush), classic 鈥楪olden Wax鈥 (bush), or 鈥楳onte Gusto鈥 (pole).

If you are planting your green beans in containers, we suggest bush or pole beans. Many compact varieties are available, and many standard beans can be grown in containers as well. Here are some of our favorite bean varieties for containers.

  • Phaseolus lunatus 鈥榃hite Dixie Butterpea鈥: 16 to 24 inches tall; three to four small lima beans per pod; excellent for hot weather climates.
  • P. vulgaris 鈥楧erby鈥: tender, round, 7-inch-long pods form on 18-inch plants; resistant to bean common mosaic virus. 
  • P. vulgaris 鈥楳ascotte鈥: prolific producer; 5- to 6-inch fruit on 16- to 18-inch- tall plants; resistant to anthracnose, bean common mosaic virus, and halo blight; variety name is French for 鈥渕ascot鈥 and symbolizes good luck. 
  • P. vulgaris 鈥楾opcrop鈥: vigorous heirloom that sets heavy crop of pods 6 to 7 inches long on 15- to 18-inch-tall bushes; resistant to bean common mosaic virus.
  • P. coccineus 鈥楬estia鈥: dwarf runner bean; 12- to 14-inch-tall plants produce 8-inch-long pods; if desired, leave beans to dry on plant and harvest as dried beans for chili, soups, and stews
  • P. vulgaris 鈥楻attlesnake鈥: heirloom; vines up to 10 feet long produce 8- to 10-inch-long green pods with purple speckles; drought-resistant; heat-tolerant

Read more about some of our favorite varieties of green beans.

Harvesting

  • Harvest beans in the morning when their sugar level is highest.
  • Pick green beans every day; the more you pick, the more beans grow.
  • Green beans are picked young and tender before the seeds inside have fully developed. 
  • Look for firm, sizable pods that are firm and can be snapped鈥攇enerally as thick as a pencil. 
  • Snap or cut the beans off the plant, being careful not to tear the plant. Fresh beans should snap easily when broken.
  • Once you see the seeds inside bulging, green beans are past their peak and will taste tough.

How to Store Green Beans

Gardening Products

Wit and Wisdom

  • Beans are commonly used in everyday expressions to indicate something of little value. Something that 鈥渋sn’t worth a hill of beans鈥 is not worth much. Meanwhile, a 鈥渂ean counter鈥 is a person involved in corporate or government financial decisions and especially one reluctant to spend money.
  • According to folklore, in order to get rid of a wart, rub it with a bean and cast the bean over your shoulder without looking back.
  • 鈥淪tring鈥 beans have a fibrous, sometimes tough, thread running the length of their pod that for centuries had to be removed by hand. In the late 1800s, breeders became successful in eliminating the string in most varieties; today, only heirloom beans still have a string.
  • 鈥淕reen鈥 beans, 鈥渟nap鈥 beans, and 鈥渟tring鈥 beans are all the same.
  • Not all green beans are, in fact, green. Their colors can range from purple to red to yellow to streaked variations thereof.

Pests/Diseases

Green Bean Pests and Diseases
Pest/DiseaseTypeSymptomsControl/Prevention
AnthracnoseFungusYellow/brown/purple/black spots on leaves; sunken, dark spots on stems and pods; spots may develop a salmon-pink, gelatinous mass; eventually, rotDestroy infected plants; choose resistant varieties; provide good drainage; avoid overhead watering; apply compost; use mulch; rotate crops
AphidsInsectMisshapen/yellow leaves; distorted flowers/pods; sticky 鈥渉oneydew鈥 (excrement); sooty, black moldGrow companion plants; knock off with water spray; apply insecticidal soap; put banana or orange peels around plants; wipe leaves with a 1 to 2 percent solution of dish soap (no additives) and water every 2 to 3 days for 2 weeks; add native plants to invite beneficial insects
Cucumber beetlesInsectHoles in leaves/flowers; rasped pods; plants stunted/die; may transmit bacterial wiltHandpick; mulch heavily; use row covers; destroy plants infected with bacterial wilt
CutwormsInsectWilting; severed stems of seedlings and transplants just above or below soil line; whole seedlings disappearHandpick; in spring before planting, cultivate soil to reduce larvae; wrap a 4-inch-wide collar made from cardboard or newspaper around each stem, sinking 2 inches into soil; weed; use row covers; destroy crop residue
Japanese beetlesInsectLeaves skeletonized (only veins remain); stems/flowers/pods chewed; grubs feed on rootsHandpick; use row covers
LeafhoppersInsectWhite shed skins on leaf undersides (from nymph molting); stippling (many tiny spots) on leaves; 鈥渉opperburn鈥 (leaves yellow/brown, curled, or stunted); reduced yieldKnock nymphs off leaf undersides with strong spray of water; use row covers; monitor adults with yellow sticky traps; weed; destroy crop residue
Mexican bean beetlesInsectLacey, skeletonized foliage; dark holes on podsHandpick; purchase and release beneficial wasp Pediobius foveolatus when larvae observed; destroy severely infested plants; use row covers
Mosaic virus (bean)VirusLeaves show green mottling (mosaic pattern) and may be distorted, blistered, curled downward; plants stuntedDestroy infected plants; choose resistant varieties and certified virus-free seed; use row covers; disinfect tools; weed; control aphids
Powdery mildewFungusWhite spots on upper leaf surfaces expand to flour-like coating over entire leaves; foliage may yellow/die; distortion/stunting of leaves/flowersDestroy infected leaves or plants; choose resistant varieties; plant in full sun, if possible; ensure good air circulation; spray plants with 1 teaspoon baking soda dissolved in 1 quart water; destroy crop residue
Root-knot nematodesNematodeTypically, roots 鈥渒notty鈥 or galled; plants stunted/yellow/wiltedDestroy crop residue, including roots; choose resistant varieties; solarize soil; add aged manure/compost; disinfect tools; till in autumn; rotate crops
Slugs/snailsMolluskIrregular holes in leaves/flowers; gouged pods; slimy secretion on plants/soil; seedlings 鈥渄isappear鈥Handpick; avoid thick bark mulch; use copper plant collars; avoid overhead watering; lay boards on soil in evening, and in morning dispose of 鈥渉iding鈥 pests in hot, soapy water; drown in deep container filled with 1/2 inch of beer, or sugar water and yeast, and sunk so that top edge is slightly above ground; apply 1-inch-wide strip of food-grade diatomaceous earth as barrier
StinkbugsInsectYellow/white blotches on leaves; scarred, dimpled, or distorted pods; shriveled seeds; eggs, often keg-shape, in clusters on leaf undersidesDestroy crop residue; handpick (bugs emit odor, wear gloves); destroy eggs; spray nymphs with insecticidal soap; use row covers; weed; till soil in fall
White moldFungusPale gray, 鈥渨ater-soaked鈥 areas on stems, leaves, and other plant parts that enlarge and develop white, cottony growth, later with black particles; bleached areas; crowns/pods rot; plants wilt/collapseDestroy infected plants; ensure good air circulation; water in morning; weed; destroy crop residue; rotating crops on 5-year or longer cycle may help
WhitefliesInsectSticky 鈥渉oneydew鈥 (excrement); sooty, black mold; yellow/silver areas on leaves; wilted/stunted plants; distortion; adults fly if disturbed; some species transmit virusesRemove infested leaves/plants; use handheld vacuum to remove pests; spray water on leaf undersides in morning/evening to knock off pests; monitor adults with yellow sticky traps; spray with insecticidal soap; invite beneficial insects and hummingbirds with native plants; weed; use reflective mulch
WirewormsInsectSeeds hollowed; seedlings severed; stunting/wilting; roots eatenTrap by digging 2- to 4-inch-deep holes every 3 to 10 feet, fill with mix of germinating beans/corn/peas or potato sections as bait, cover with soil or a board, in 1 week uncover and kill collected wireworms; sow seeds in warm soil for quick germination; provide good drainage; remove plant debris; rotate crops

Recipes

Homemade Green Bean Casserole
Green Bean Salad
Dilled Green Beans
Green Bean and Basil Soup
Asian-Style Green Beans
Vegetables
About The Author

Catherine Boeckmann

Catherine Boeckmann loves nature, stargazing, and gardening so it鈥檚 not surprising that she and The Old Farmer鈥檚 蜜桃恋人 found each other. She leads digital content for the 蜜桃恋人 website, and is also a certified master gardener in the state of Indiana. Read More from Catherine Boeckmann
 

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Comments

Michele Jones (not verified)

4 years 7 months ago

Hi,

I planted 4 bush beans (tendergreen improved) on April 1st. Now on April 17th, they are 11鈥 high! They have one set of tiny leaves at 6鈥 high and another set at the top. They look so tall and spindly that I wonder if they want to be pole beans and if I should tie them to stakes.

For details, I planted them in a 10" round by 8.5" high terra cotta clay pot. I planted them in Pro Mix (Premium Organic Vegetable & Herb) with 1/3 vermiculite. They are in a sunny window inside and I water them daily.

Should I pinch them, stake them or something else? Or is this what they should look like and I should leave them grow as they wish? I hope you can help with my dilemma.

Thanks,

Michele
New gardener & 1st time bean grower

By all accounts these are a good variety of bean, good to grow, good to eat, good to keep. However they do sound like they are reaching…for light. or warmth. You would have best results if you sow when the soil is above 60*F; below that means poor results. Have you got four more seeds to try again a little later?

BTW, the soil should be 60掳F or so when the air is, consistently.

Maria (not verified)

5 years 4 months ago

Mulch. Peat moss shouldn't be used as a mulch for your flowerbed. Mulches such as compost and pine straw add vital nutrients to the soil as they decompose, but peat moss doesn't. ... It's ability to hold water makes it an excellent soil additive, but not a good mulch.

So, which is better, regular mulch, or peat moss??????????????!!!!!!!!!!??????????????????????????????????????????

Michael D. (not verified)

6 years ago

For the background information... I am in Virginia near the coast, apparently near the edge of zone 8A and 7B depending on which source you ask. I just harvested pods that an ex had planted but not taken care of well once she realized they weren't green beans. What I see from these dried pods they were a very small black bean and another that varies between light grey / tan to light brown and visually appear to be like Kidney beans but paler in color. These beans were planted in a 9" tall planter that did ok for tomatoes and another that did incredibly well for sweet and jalepeno peppers. So now that I have pulled these beans I am looking at trying my hand at growing them next year but I have a few questions. My plan is to put the beans in a raised bed that will see both morning and afternoon sun, more afternoon than morning. Because of this I am considering planting on both sides of a trellis, one side will see more morning and one side more afternoon. I have heard the rule of about 6 hours of sun but I wasn't sure if it matters on the time of day since I have heard one is stronger than the other. I plan a raised bed since the area I want to use cannot be dug, cables underground. I would like to do 1 ft high by 7ft long by 1ft deep, it appears to be the root ball of these plants are not wide or deep, but I wonder if I should do 2ft by 6ft? It sounds like the rule is planting about every 3 inches for vine plants? And would that mean I should go every 6 inches on each side of the trellis so the plants do not crowd each other or can I plan 4 inches on each side? Essentially I think that question is focusing on is the space requirement more for the roots or the plant spacing as each side of the trellis would place the seeds about 3 inches apart with every 4 inches on each side but the plants sharing the same trellis would really be about 2 inches apart as they grow up. Is it bad to plant two beans in a hole to increase the chances of a successful growth? I am uncertain if a stronger one will take hold or if I would end up with two plants fighting for growth by doing that. My last question is just a curiosity about a previous response to a comment. It was mentioned that varieties do not grow true from parent to future seedlings, I think it was said only heirloom plants stay true. Does that mean the plant will revert to one of the original parent species over generations or will they just change from year to year. Also would it be possible given that previous statement that over generations you could end up with two very different types of bean as they revert to true form?

Andrea (not verified)

6 years 4 months ago

This is my 3rd year growing pole beans (Kentucky & Blue Lake varietals). I didn't add anything extra for them to climb because I thought I built my teepee tall enough. However, the runners are climbing just into the sky and wrapping around one another. I've harvested a couple nice crops already from them, and they are healthy and happy... but should I pinch the tips of the runners so that new sprouts will be the focus of the plant down below?

Marjorie Taylor (not verified)

6 years 7 months ago

I should have read this site first but did not.I planted Bush Beans with a grow light indoors, planning to transplant after frost outdoors. I planted them the last week in March 2018 and have now put them in separate containers with plenty of light. They are about 12" tall. What should I do are they lost with a lesson learned. I live in South East Michigan.

Above it says only that the plants 鈥渕ay not survive transplanting鈥濃攚hich means they may not…or they may. What to do? First do not give up. Plan to transplant these seedlings as you set out to do and see what happens. Be sure to harden them off first, so their entry into the outdoors is not a shock: give them a couple/few hours outdoors, easing into sunlight, in the weeks before transplanting. Second, which you may or may not choose to do: Buy some more seeds, even if they are not the type you planned to grow. Don’t let the season get away from you! Have a backup plan…and possibly (with the new seeds) a second harvest!

Jojo (not verified)

6 years 8 months ago

Hi Everyone,
My first time growing pole beans and done a lot of research. Live on the coast of SC upper-middle..I have my beans growing in a big container and I have built a teepee trellis.. Right now my plant is about 3-4" high I plan on putting my plant outside next month ..on my balcony (the only place I can garden) which is a screened in porch. I have read u can not transplant from indoors to outdoors, but I'm thinking it will be ok to move the container outdoors. My porch does not get full sun, but the heat here feels like full sun and they will get plenty of light, I hope they grow great. Will I be able to bring my plant indoors after final harvest and care for it during the winter season and if doing so, will they grow another crop next year?
Happy Growing...Ty!