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Container growing gives you more control over the conditions. You can place the pot where it will get the most sun and where it will be convenient for you to water and keep an eye on, such as on a balcony, patio, or deck. Most importantly, you choose the soil. Many of the diseases that plague cucumbers are soil-borne. By growing in clean, fresh potting soil—whether you choose a soilless mix or a compost-based one—your plants will stand a better chance of success than ones planted in the ground.

Best Cucumber Varieties for Container Gardening

Cucumbers come in two main types: vining and bush varieties. Most cucumbers grow on long vines, but there are some bush types that form a more compact plant. Bush or dwarf cucumbers have been bred to stay compact, making them perfect for containers. They still branch out, but the vines are short, so they need only minimal support, if any. Instead of sprawling 6 feet or more, they are usually only 2 feet wide and mounded. Look for ones with bush in their name such as ‘Bush Crop’, ‘Bush Slicer’, or ‘Salad Bush’. 

Vining plants are fine for containers as long as their vines can run. Reaching six feet long or more, they will need a trellis to climb. Since the fruits will be able to hang down they will grow straight, not twisted or curled. We love ‘Diva’ for its sweet, thin-skinned fruits but almost any variety can be grown in a pot if given a fence, support, or trellis to climb.

Recommended Varieties

Bush Beans

• Cucumis sativus ‘Bush Champion’: compact, 8- to 10-inch-tall plants produce 8- to 12-inch fruit; 24-inch spread; resistant to cucumber mosaic virus
• C. sativus ‘H-19 Little Leaf ’: compact, multi-branching plant produces 3- to 5-inch fruit; needs no pollination; resistant to angular leaf spot, anthracnose, bacterial wilt, downy mildew, and scab; good pickler 
• C. sativus ‘Parisian Gherkin’: small, 10- to 12-inch-tall plants produce 2- to 4-inch fruit; semi-vining form; resistant to cucumber mosaic virus and scab; good pickler 
• C. sativus ‘Salad Bush’: compact, 6- to 8-inch-tall plant; early producer of 8-inch fruit; 26-inch spread; resistant to cucumber mosaic virus, powdery mildew, and scab 

Vining Beans

• C. sativus ‘Picklebush’: compact, 2-foot-long vines produce 4- to 5-inch fruit; resistant to cucumber mosaic virus and powdery mildew; good pickler
• C. sativus ‘Spacemaster 80’: 2- to 3-foot-long vines produce 71/2-inch-long fruit (can drape over a container or attach to a trellis); resistant to cucumber mosaic virus, downy mildew, powdery mildew, and scab

What Size Pot to Grow Cucumbers in

Choose a container that is at least 10 inches deep and 12 inches wide. This will hold 3 vining types or 1 bush cucumber. I planted one 18-inch pot with 4 vining ‘Diva’ plants and another 18-inch pot with ‘Bush Crop’ seeds to see which does better. The staggered planting will ensure we have cukes over a longer period of time.

If a trellis or other support is needed, place it in or next to the pot prior to planting. Anchor it securely and gently tie plants to it as they grow.

Planting Cucumbers in Pots

Cucumbers are heat lovers. Depending on the length of your growing season, you may choose to start the plants indoors or plant seeds directly into your pots. Another option is to buy a starter plant directly from your local nursery or farm supply store. We prefer direct seeding; cucumbers grow quickly, and reach the harvesting stage about 8 to 10 weeks from seed. Plus, cukes are not fond of transplanting.

The trick is: Do not plant these warm-weather plants outside too early! Cold weather can ruin your cucumber crop! Wait about 3 to 4 weeks after your last frost date; avoid overnight temperatures below 60°F. See the ÃÛÌÒÁµÈË Planting Calendar based on last frost dates. Another method for timing is a soil thermometer; seeds germinate best in  70° to 80° soil and won’t sprout at all in soil under 50°. 

Plant seeds directly in your pot ½ inch deep. If transplanting those baby cukes, do not touch or disturb the roots and keep as much of the soil around the roots as possible; do not pull on the stem or it will break. Plant at the same depth that they were at in their pots for best results. Water in thoroughly.

Watering Your Cucumbers

It takes consistent watering to make a sweet, juicy cucumber. Keep your soil moist (don’t let the pots dry out), or the soil will pull away from the sides of the container, and when you water, it will just run off and not soak in. Uneven watering will cause bitter or hollow fruits. Keep soil moist, but avoid wetting the leaves. (Consider watering from the bottom by putting the pot on a saucer or other vessel and adding water to it as needed.) Mulching the top of the pot will help lessen moisture loss and keep shallow cucumber roots protected. 

Fertilizing Cucumber in Containers

After the first true leaves appear, apply a slow-release pellet fertilizer based on the package directions for the pot size. Follow with low-nitrogen, high-potassium fertilizer every 10 to 14 days. (Too much nitrogen may cause a plant to produce more leaves than flowers and/or cause flowers to fail.) Fertilize your cucumbers once a week when the plants start to set fruit.

Harvesting Cucumbers

This is the best part! Pick your cucumbers while they are small and tender. Don’t let them get overripe, or the plants will stop producing. Pick regularly; failure to do so can reduce production or lead to hard-skin, bitter-tasting fruit. Use a knife or pruner to remove; pulling fruit off the vine may damage the vine. Before storing, wash thoroughly with cool water and remove any debris. Allow to dry completely, then place in perforated plastic bags. Cucumbers will keep in the refrigerator for 7 to 10 days.

Try using them in a delicious Watermelon Cucumber Salad, or try your hand at making Bread and Butter Pickles!

Have you ever grown cucumbers in containers? Tell us all about it!