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How to Grow Cherries: The Complete Guide

Cherries are much better picked off a branch at home than from the supermarket.

Botanical Name
Prunus avium (Sweet Cherries), Prunus cerasus (Sour Cherries)
Plant Type
Fruit
Sun Exposure
Full Sun
Soil pH
Slightly Acidic to Neutral
Hardiness Zone
4
5
6
7

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Planting, Growing, and Harvesting Cherries

Catherine Boeckmann

Cherry trees are gorgeous all-year long, from their spring blossoms to their luscious fruit in midsummer. Learn how to grow and harvest both sweet and tart cherries. Also, be sure to protect your cherries from bird damage!

About Cherries

  • Sweet cherries are the variety most often found in markets. They have a thick, rich, and almost plum-like texture. Sweet cherries grow in hardiness zones 5 to 7; they are self-sterile and best for an orchard or a large garden. You’ll need at least two or three trees, as they’ll need to pollinate each other. If space is limited, consider the dwarf, self-pollinating cultivar â€˜Stella’.
  • Sour cherries are not usually eaten raw, but are widely used for preserves and other cooking uses. Sour cherries are much smaller than sweet cherries and all varieties are self-fertile. They grow in zones 4 to 6.

Cherry trees generally start bearing fruit in their fourth year; dwarf trees bear fruit a year earlier. One mature, standard-size tart or sweet cherry tree will produce 30 to 50 quarts of cherries each year; a dwarf tree, about 10 to 15 quarts.

Plant cherry trees in early spring or late fall (when the ground is soft and has a higher moisture content) in a sunny site with good air circulation and deep, well-drained soil. Apply mulch and water well. After flowering in a fruiting year, you’ll need to drape trees with wildlife-safe netting to protect the fruit from birds.

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Planting

Plant cherry trees in a sunny site with good air circulation; avoid planting near larger trees or buildings that will shade the cherries. Ideally, cherry trees should get at least 6 hours of sunlight each day.

Cherry trees do best in deep, well-draining soil that has a pH of 6.0-7.0.

Space sweet cherries 35 to 40 feet apart; dwarfs, 5 to 10 feet apart. Space tart cherries 20 to 25 feet apart; dwarfs, 8 to 10 feet apart.

When to Plant Cherry Trees

  • Plant cherries in the late fall or early spring (when the ground is soft and has a higher moisture content).
  • When selecting sweet cherries, make sure the different varieties will pollinate each other.

How to Plant Cherry Trees

  • Trees on standard rootstock should be planted with the graft union a few inches below the soil level. Trees on dwarf rootstock should be planted with the graft union several inches above the soil level, which will prevent the graft from growing its own roots and bypassing the rootstock.
  • When planting fan-trained trees, construct the necessary supports before planting. Plant fans only 12 to 15 feet apart.
  • For bareroot trees, place the rootstock on a small mound of soil in the center of the planting hole, and spread the roots down and away, trying not to bend the roots. Backfill with soil.
  • For container-grown trees, first remove the rootball and set the tree on its side; cut through any pot-bound or encircled roots with shears. Don’t cover the top of the root-ball.

Check out this video to learn more about how to plant a bare–root fruit tree:

Growing

  • There is no difference in care between sour and sweet cherries.
  • Apply mulch around the tree to retain moisture, but leave several inches of bare earth around the trunk.
  • Drape netting over trees to protect the fruit from birds.
  • Water routinely in dry areas.
  • Thinning the fruit is not necessary for cherry trees, as they typically thin naturally in early summer.
  • Prune trees every year in late winter to encourage the growth of new fruiting wood. Don’t prune in the fall.
  • Fertilize early in spring with a low-nitrogen fertilizer (such as 5-10-10) a few weeks before trees start to flower, then fertilize as necessary (check soil fertility by testing the soil) until cherries are harvested. Do not fertilize after mid-summer, as new growth needs time to harden off before fall and winter.

Types

Sweet Cherries

  • Early - ‘Black Tartarian’
  • Midseason - â€˜Bing’
  • Late - â€˜Stella’

Sour Cherries

  • Early - ‘Early Richmond’
  • Midseason - â€˜Montmorency’
  • Late - â€˜Meteor’

Harvesting

  • Pick fruits only when FULLY ripe (dark red, black, yellow); the sugar content rises the few days before fully ripened.
  • Be ready to harvest within a week’s time. Eat or cook immediately.
  • Pick fruits when firm if they are to be frozen.
  • Be sure top pick with the cherry stem so you do not tear into the fruit, however, take care to lead the fruit spur to produce fruit next year.
  • Hand-picking may injure the shoots and cause infection; Cut the stalks with scissors.
  • Remember that cherry trees do not typically bear fruit until their fourth year. Thereafter, they should produce about 30 to 50 quarts of cherries each year.
Gardening Products

Wit and Wisdom

A cherry year, a merry year.

There is a famous myth that President George Washington cut down a cherry tree and then admitted his wrongdoing to his father. This myth was invented by a biographer of President Washington, who hoped to display his honesty. We still think it’s a great idea to commemorate President’s Day with a delicious cherry pie recipe!

Pests/Diseases

Birds are common pests, especially with sweet cherries (versus tarts). To avoid bird damage, you can drap nylon mesh netting over dwarf trees, but it’s difficult to cover the larger standard-size sweet cherry tree. Distracting objects such as pie pans can help but birds can used to them. 

Another solution is to grow a fruit tree nearby that will ripen before and during the cherry season, such as mulberry trees. (Avoid planting ‘Illinois Everbearing’ mulberry which ripens too late.)

Learn more about keeping birds out of the garden.

Other pests that attack cherries include fruit flies, apple maggots, peach tree borers, and caterpillars (specifically the larvae of the plum curculio). Ask your local garden center about approved sprays.

Brown rot and cherry leaf spot affect both tart and sweet cherries. Black knot and powdery mildew are potential problems for some areas.

Recipes

No-Lie Cherry Pie
Rhubarb-Cherry Crunch
Cherry Berry Pie
Fruit
About The Author

Catherine Boeckmann

Catherine Boeckmann loves nature, stargazing, and gardening so it’s not surprising that she and The Old Farmer’s ÃÛÌÒÁµÈË found each other. She leads digital content for the ÃÛÌÒÁµÈË website, and is also a certified master gardener in the state of Indiana. Read More from Catherine Boeckmann
 

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Comments

Sorry to hear about your bird problem! Cherry trees only bear fruit once a year, so it looks like you’ll need to wait until next summer for another harvest, unfortunately. 

As for the bird netting, you will have to consult your local town or municipal office to find out what’s allowed in your area. If used for only a brief period of time, I don’t see it resulting in any problems. (Unless you’ve got nosy neighbors, of course.)

Unfortunately my dear you will have to wait until next year for cherries. Cherries only bear once a year and birds eating the cherries is very common. Most cities and towns don't care about using bird netting as they understand your trying to save your crop...Good luck for next season...Howie

Menua Sinanyan (not verified)

6 years 6 months ago

I want to have Sour Cherry in California (Los Angeles) do you think if I plant 2 trees it will give me fruit? Thank You!

two kinds possible that i know of: an iranian variety that paradise nursery sells (northridge), and a spanish variety (cristobalina) that the arboreum co sells

Sour cherry trees are not generally grown in southern California as there aren’t enough chill hours. It’s only sweet cherries which require cross-pollination; sour cherries are self-fertile.

Susan Hollingshead (not verified)

7 years ago

Now that November is here, I would like to know how to preserve my little nectarine tree.
I just planted it last spring, and it has done quite well and grown a ton this summer! Do I need to do anything at all for it during the winter? We usually have several snow storms.
Thank you.

Given that your tree is brand new, there will be less maintenance involved this year as there might be in the future, when you should remove old fruit and prune dead branches before winter arrives. Assuming you have selected a cold hardy variety, you shouldn’t have much to worry about, unless your winters typically get colder than -10°F for sustained periods of time. In any case, it would be a good idea to add an approximately 2 to 3-inch layer of mulch around the base of the tree to give it some extra insulation for the winter. Bark or wood chip mulch is best, and leaving a ring around the base of the tree open is recommended to protect from rodent pests (you can also wrap a layer of hardware cloth fencing around the base to prevent damage). You’ll want to remove the mulch as soon as fear of spring frosts have waned, as it can prevent the necessary warming of the roots by the sun. .

Sandy Bryan (not verified)

7 years 2 months ago

I just purchased two cherry trees and we're now looking for the right place to plant them. I'm wondering if the deer will take to these trees, thereby making it necessary for us to plant inside our fenced in area or if we're safe planting outside the fence. Thanks!

If deer are a problem in your area, your young cherry trees may be in danger without protection. Deer like to eat young leaves and buds, and will also eat fruit. They may also rub against the bark on older trees. When competition for food is fierce, deer may eat a wider variety of plants. It might be best to plant inside the fenced area, if that fence is deer-proof. Or, protect your trees from deer in other ways, especially while the trees are becoming established.

Kathryn (not verified)

7 years 3 months ago

Over the winter I moved into a house and to my delight discovered in the spring that we have a lovely mature cherry tree in the back yard! Not sure of the variety, but it did develop big, bright red, sweet cherries in June. However, before I was able to pick more than a few cups, most of the ripe ones turned brown and rotted.

This is a very mature tree, and it has obviously been neglected for some time. We also had an extremely wet spring and summer (in Toronto) which may have contributed to the rot.

I would love to know what I can do to care for it properly so that next summer I can enjoy more delicious cherries!