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Planting, Growing, and Harvesting Tomatoes
Planting
Select a site with full sun! In northern regions, 8 to 10 hours of direct sunlight are preferred. In southern regions, light afternoon shade (natural or applied, e.g., row covers) will help tomatoes to survive and thrive. Dig the soil to about 1 foot deep and mix in aged manure and/or compost. Give it two weeks to break down before planting.
Also, choose a space where tomatoes (and members of their family, especially eggplants, peppers, and potatoes) have not grown in the previous couple of years. See tips on crop rotation.
When to Plant Tomatoes
Tomatoes are long-season, heat-loving plants that won鈥檛 tolerate frost, so wait until the weather has warmed up in the spring. See our Planting Calendar for when to start tomatoes in your location.
If you are starting tomatoes from seed, sow indoors six weeks before the last expected spring frost date in your area. Sow seeds 1/2-inch deep in small trays. Plant seedlings outdoors about two weeks after that date or when temperatures stay in the mid-50 degree range both day and night. See our full guide to starting tomato seeds indoors.
If you have a long enough growing season, it is also possible to direct-seed tomatoes in the garden soil (1/2-inch deep)鈥攂ut not before the soil is at least 55掳F. Note that 70掳F soil is optimum for maximum germination within five days.
Hardening Off Tomatoes
If you鈥檙e buying or growing the start plants, you鈥檒l need to 鈥渉arden off鈥 the seedlings for a week before transplanting them into the ground. Set them outdoors in the shade for a few hours on the first day. Gradually increase this time each day to include some direct sunlight. Learn more about hardening off seedlings.
How to Plant Tomatoes
- Transplant your seedlings (or your nursery-grown plants) into the ground outdoors after all danger of frost has passed and the soil is at least 60掳F. See our Planting Calendar for suggested transplanting dates.
- Place tomato stakes or cages in the soil when planting. Staking and caging keep developing fruit off the ground (to avoid disease and pests) and also help the plant to stay upright. See instructions on how to build stakes, cages, and tomato supports.
- Optional: When you transplant tomatoes, add a handful of organic tomato fertilizer or bone meal (a good source of phosphorus) to the planting hole. Do NOT apply high-nitrogen fertilizers such as those recommended for lawns, as this will promote luxurious foliage but can delay flowering and fruiting.
- When planting seedlings, pinch off a few of the lower leaves. Here are two ways to set seedlings in the soil:
- Place each root ball deep enough so that the bottom leaves are just above the surface of the soil. Roots will grow all along the plant鈥檚 stem underground. Plant seedlings 2 to 3 feet apart. Crowded plants will not get sufficient sun, and the fruit may not ripen.
- Alternatively, lay long, leggy transplants on their sides in trenches 3 to 4 inches deep. Bury the stems up to the first set of true leaves. Roots will develop along the buried stem. If you plant this way, consider setting four tomato plants in compass-point positions (north, south, east, and west). This formation enables you to fertilize and water the plants in the middle.
- Remember to allow enough space for the plants to spread out.
- Water well to reduce shock to the roots.
Growing Tomatoes in Containers
- Use a large pot or container (at least 20 inches in diameter) with drainage holes in the bottom.
- Use loose, well-draining soil (e.g., at least 12 inches of a good 鈥減otting mix鈥 with added organic material).
- A tray of some sort should be placed under the pot to catch any excess water that drains out the bottom.
- Choose determinate types, such as bush or dwarf varieties. Many cherry tomatoes grow well in pots. Taller varieties may need to be staked.
- Plant one tomato plant per pot and give each at least 6 hours of sun per day.
- Keep soil moist. Containers will dry out more quickly than garden soil, so check daily and provide extra water during heat waves.
- Learn more about how to grow tomatoes in containers.
Growing
Watering Tomatoes
- Water in the early morning so that plants have sufficient moisture to make it through a hot day.
- Water generously the first few days that the tomato seedlings or transplants are in the ground.
- Then, water with about 2 inches (about 1.2 gallons) per square foot per week during the growing season. Deep watering encourages a strong root system.
- Avoid overhead watering and afternoon watering. Water at the base/soil level of a plant to avoid splashing water on the leaves (which invites disease).
- Mulch the plants 5 weeks after transplanting to retain moisture, keep soil from splashing the lower leaves, and control weeds. Apply 2 to 4 inches of organic mulch, such as straw, hay, or bark chips.
- To help tomatoes through periods of drought, find some flat rocks and place one next to each plant. The rocks prevent water from evaporating from the soil.
Fertilizing Tomatoes
- You should have already worked compost into the soil before planting and added some bonemeal to the planting hole when transplanting.
- Side-dress plants, applying liquid seaweed or fish emulsion or an organic fertilizer every two weeks, starting when tomatoes are about 1 inch in diameter (some folks say golf ball-size). If you are using an organic granular formula such as Espoma Tomato-Tone (4-7-10 or 3-4-6), pull mulch back a few inches and scratch 2 to 3 tablespoons fertilizer around the drip line of the plant. Water in, and replace mulch.
- Continue fertilizing tomatoes about every 3 to 4 weeks until frost.
- Note: Avoid fast-release fertilizers and avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers. As stated, too much nitrogen will result in lush foliage but few flowers and little or no fruit.
Pruning Tomatoes
- If growing vining tomatoes, pinch off suckers (new, tiny stems and leaves between branches and the main stem). This aids air circulation and allows more sunlight into the middle of the plant.
- Gently tie the stems to stakes with rags, nylon stockings, twine, or soft string.
- As a plant grows, trim the lower leaves from the bottom 12 inches of the stem.
Check out this post for even more tomato tips.
Types
The first job is deciding what to grow, and with at least 10,000 different varieties of tomato, there鈥檚 certainly plenty to choose from, including cherry tomatoes, paste types, varieties with standard round fruits, and chunky beefsteak tomatoes.
Whatever you grow, they鈥檒l fall into one of two categories: 鈥榖ush鈥 tomatoes, sometimes called determinate tomatoes, which grow to around three feet (1m) tall, and 鈥榲ining鈥 tomatoes, also called indeterminate or 鈥榗ordon鈥 tomatoes, which continue growing to produce fruits on one long stem. Learn more about the difference between determinate and indeterminate tomatoes.
Do you only have a hanging basket? Hey, that鈥檚 no problem鈥攖here are compact tomatoes for this situation, too.
- Determinate tomatoes, better known as bush varieties, grow 2 to 3 feet tall. These varieties tend to provide numerous ripe tomatoes at one time. They do not put on much leaf growth after setting fruit and tend to fruit for a (relatively) brief period of time. They are generally productive earlier than the vining varieties and not in the latter part of the growing season. Determinate tomatoes do not require staking or caging. These plants are ideal for containers and small spaces. Most paste tomatoes are determinate, which works well for making sauce and canning. Because they produce determinate tomatoes at the same time, they are a good selection for canning.
- Indeterminate tomatoes, better known as vining varieties, produce the largest types of mid- to late-season slicing tomatoes all summer and until the first frost. Because indeterminates experience more leaf growth, their production tends to be spread more evenly throughout the season. Indeterminate tomatoes need staking. They are ideal in large gardeners. Most beefsteak and cherry tomatoes are indeterminate.
Tomatoes come in a wide range of flavors, colors, and sizes. The choice also depends on how you use this versatile fruit in the kitchen. Cherry tomatoes are great for salads. Beefsteaks are great for sandwiches.
Romas are not usually eaten fresh out of hand but are perfect for sauces and ketchup. See our separate Guide to Growing Roma Tomatoes.
Also, tomatoes can be susceptible to pests and diseases. To avoid problems, choose disease-resistant cultivars whenever possible.
Early Varieties (fewer than 70 days to harvest)
Early-maturing cultivars such as Early Girl may be slightly less flavorful but will produce fruit 2 to 3 weeks earlier than mid or late-season cultivars.
- 鈥楨arly Cascade鈥: indeterminate trailing plant, fruit in clusters; disease-resistant
- 鈥楨arly Girl鈥: indeterminate, meaty fruit; produces through the summer
Mid-season Varieties (70 to 80 days to harvest)
- 鈥楩loramerica鈥: determinate; disease-resistant; firm, deep red flesh, strong plant
- 鈥楩antastic鈥: indeterminate; disease- and crack-resistant; meaty, rich flavor, heavy yields
Late-season Varieties (80 days or more to harvest)
- 鈥楢mish Paste鈥: indeterminate; heirloom; large plum tomatoes, acorn-shaped fruit; juicy, excellent for sauce.
- 鈥楤randywine鈥: indeterminate; heirloom; beefsteak with perfect acid-sweet combination; many variants are available
- 鈥楾omato, Roma VF鈥: determinate; compact Roma tomatoes; resistant to wilts. Meaty interiors and few seeds; heavy-yielding; good for paste and canning.
Credit: Ben185/Getty
Cherry Tomatoes
- 鈥楽un Gold鈥: 57 days to maturity; indeterminate; resistant to Fusarium wilt and tobacco mosaic virus; bright tangerine-orange color on grapelike trusses; intensely sweet taste
- 鈥楳att鈥檚 Wild Cherry鈥: indeterminate, disease-resistant (including blight)
- 鈥榊ellow Mini (F1)鈥: 57 days to maturity; indeterminate; sweet, juicy favor; compared with other cherry tomatoes, Yellow Mini resists the splitting that is caused by too much rain or inconsistent watering; high resistance to tobacco mosaic virus.
Credit: .
Large Tomatoes
- Beefsteak, Beefmaster, Ponderosa, and Oxheart are noted for their large fruit. However, these larger fruited types often are more susceptible to diseases and skin cracking.
Credit: .
Check out this helpful video on how to choose tomato varieties.
Cooking Notes
Tomatoes are nutritious and low in calories. One medium-sized tomato provides 57% of the recommended daily allotment (RDA) of vitamin C, 25% of vitamin A, and 8% of iron, yet it has only 35 calories.
Capture the garden-fresh taste of tomatoes all year long! See this helpful post on how to can tomatoes.
Many people also love dried tomatoes, so learn how to dry your own tomatoes here.
See our Best Tomato Recipes Ever!
Catherine Boeckmann
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If your tomatoes are overwhelmed with foliage, it might hinder growth a bit. We suggest to prune plants by pinching off suckers so that only a handful of stems are growing on each plant. You will get healthier and bigger tomatoes this way. Also remove any leaves that are touching the soil.
We live in south alabama when would we plant for fall tomatoes and what variety would br best
Lucky you! Some suggestions for fall-season tomatoes include these cherries: Red Robin (55 days to maturity), Sun Gold (55 to 58 days), Black Cherry (65 days). Among the heirlooms you could try Early Wonder (55 days), Green Zeba (78 days), and Brandywine (69 to 80 days). Hybrids include Early Girl (50 to 52 days) and Jetsetter (about 64 days).
We hope this helps!
What would make the plant leaves turn yellow?
Hi Barbara,
Yellow or 鈥渃hlorotic鈥 leaves on tomato plants is most commonly a sign of a nutrient deficiency. The only way to know for sure is to have your soil tested by your local Cooperative Extension agency.
Plants are in 5 gallon buckets on deck and small tomatoe growths already but Squirrels and birds pecking at them...Anything I can do to prevent this from happening?
Bird-netting placed around the tomatoes (but not resting on them) will help to prevent birds from pecking. You can attach the netting to a homemade wooden frame shaped like a cube. Squirrels can sometimes chew through the netting—in that case, construct a cage with chicken wire. Make the cage light enough, though, so that you can easily lift it (or have an access panel) when you need to tend to your plants. As for size, allow for the growth of the tomato plant — indeterminate tomatoes can grow quite large. Hope this helps!
I live in a suburb of Los Angeles California. I'm late in growing my vegetables this year but I was wondering if I could still plant tomato plants.
Some people plant tomatoes in the Los Angeles area in early June, although tomatoes may not produce as much fruit if temperatures are higher than 90F (blossoms drop). You may get tomatoes late summer, though, if temperatures behave. See the planting calendar below and put in your location for a recommended planting schedule:
/gardening/planting-calendar
I live in the deep south, tomato plants are for heat in this area. Plants are loaded with tomatoes, good size but they are not turning red. Previous years the tomatoes have turned red by now. I don't know what to do.
