蜜桃恋人

How to Grow Bell Peppers: The Complete Guide

Photo Credit
D. Leonis/Getty Images
Botanical Name
Capsicum annuum
Plant Type
Vegetable
Sun Exposure
Full Sun
Soil pH
Slightly Acidic to Neutral
Bloom Time
Summer
Flower Color
White

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Planting, Growing, and Harvesting Bell Peppers (Sweet Peppers)

Catherine Boeckmann

Bell peppers are heat-loving summer vegetables that are pest-resistant and disease-resistant. Did you know that a green pepper is the same pepper as a red pepper? They’re simply harvested at different stages. See how to start, grow, care for, and pick your sweet peppers!

About Bell Peppers

Peppers have a long growing season (60 to 90 days), so most home gardeners buy starter pepper plants at the garden nursery rather than grow them from seed. However, you can start pepper seeds indoors if you want to grow your own. Northern gardeners should warm the outdoor soil by covering it with black plastic as early as possible in late winter/early spring.

Red and green peppers are good sources of vitamin C, some vitamin A, and small amounts of several minerals. They’re wonderful raw in salads or as a snack with dip or hummus. You can also stuff peppers with rice, seasoned bread crumbs, or meat and bake them.

Note that peppers can be divided into two categories: hot and sweet. Much of the growing advice is the same. That said, we also have a growing guide for hot peppers!

Read Next

Planting

Grow peppers in a space with full sun and well-draining, moist (but not wet) soil. Plant peppers in a spot where they will get at least six hours of direct sunshine every day. A balance between sandy and loamy soil will ensure the soil drains well and warms quickly. Mix large amounts of organic matter (such as compost) into the soil, especially when working with heavy clay.

Avoid planting peppers in places where you鈥檝e recently grown other nightshade family members鈥攕uch as tomatoes, potatoes, or eggplants鈥攁s this can expose peppers to disease.

When to Plant Peppers

  • To start peppers indoors in pots, sow seeds 8 to 10 weeks before your last spring frost date. 
  • Plant pepper starts or transplants outdoors about 2 to 3 weeks after the threat of frost has passed and the soil has reached 65掳F (18掳C).

How to Start Peppers Indoors

  • To start indoors: Start pepper seeds 1/4 of an inch deep, three to a pot filled with potting mix. For faster germination, maintain soil at 70掳F (21掳C) or above. To achieve these sorts of temperatures, you鈥檒l probably need a heated propagator or heat mat and some grow lights. 
  • Ideal conditions should see seedlings appear within about two weeks, but some varieties take as long as five weeks, so don鈥檛 give up on them too soon! Thin out the weakest seedling; let the remaining two pepper plants in each pot grow as one. The leaves of two plants help to protect the peppers.
  • If seedlings become leggy or too tall before it鈥檚 time to plant outside, replant them in a bigger pot up to their lowest leaves, just like tomatoes, to help support them. Keep seedlings warm with plenty of light until you鈥檙e ready to plant. If the plants have around five to eight leaves and you can see roots at the drainage holes, it鈥檚 time to move them up a pot size.
  • Be sure to harden off the seedlings about 10 days before transplanting outdoors, as peppers are very sensitive to cool temperatures. Before planting peppers outdoors, acclimatize plants to outdoor conditions by placing them in a sheltered spot outside for gradually increasing periods over two weeks. Take care to avoid frosts. Plant out only after your last expected frost date has passed.

How to Plant Peppers Outdoors

  • If you鈥檙e buying pepper starts, choose ones with straight, sturdy stems, 4 to 6 leaves, and no blooms or fruit. To harden off pepper plants, set plants outdoors a week or more after the frost-free date or when the average daily temperature reaches 65掳F (18掳C). 
  • Before transplanting in the garden, mix aged manure and/or compost into the soil about 8 to 10 inches deep and rake it several times to break up the large clods. 
  • Put transplants into the ground once the soil temperature has reached 65掳F (18掳C). Speed up the warming of the soil by covering it with black plastic or a dark mulch about a week before you intend to plant.
  • It is best to transplant peppers in the evening or on a cloudy day. This will keep the plants from drying too much and wilting.
  • Make the transplant holes 3 to 4 inches deep and 12 to 18 inches apart in the row. Space the rows 2 to 3 feet apart. Before planting, fill the holes with water and let it soak in. Into each planting hole, put two or three wooden matchsticks (for sulfur) and 1 teaspoon of low-nitrogen, high-phosphorus fertilizer (too much nitrogen will reduce the fruit set).
  • When pulling the transplant out of its tray or pot, be gentle and leave as much soil as possible around the roots. Set the transplants about one inch deeper than they were in their original container. Fill the hole with soil and pack it loosely around the plant. Leave a slightly sunken area around each plant to hold water. 
  • Water the plants after planting.
  • Using liquid fertilizer material (manure tea or starter fertilizer) is usually beneficial at this time.
  • Stake now to avoid disturbing the roots later. If necessary, support plants with cages or stakes to prevent bending. Try commercially available cone-shaped wire tomato cages. They may not be ideal for tomatoes, but they are just the thing for peppers. Or, build your own garden supports.

Check out this video to learn how to plant bell peppers:

Growing

  • Water regularly with 1 to 2 inches of water per week. This doesn’t mean shallow watering; peppers like a good dousing but should be left to almost dry out between waterings; they need that period of relative dryness. Slow, deep watering helps the root system grow strong. Do not let pepper plants wilt because this will reduce the yield and quality of the fruit. Inconsistent watering also makes pepper susceptible to blossom-end rot. 
  • Pinch out the growing points at the top once plants reach about 8 inches tall. This will encourage plants to become bushier, resulting in more fruits.
  • Once they start producing flower buds, begin feeding plants regularly. Use a tomato fertilizer or other liquid feed high in potassium.
  • In a warm or desert climate or at the height of summer, you may need to water daily. Note that in desert regions at around 4,000 feet of elevation, sweet bell peppers often fail to develop a thick, fleshy wall.
  • Peppers are extremely heat-sensitive. Blossoms may drop if plants are stressed鈥攊f it’s too hot (above 85掳 to 90掳F in daytime) or cold (below 60掳F at night) or if water is inadequate. Use shade cloth or row covers to avoid heat stress or sunscald (exposure to direct sun rays during hot weather, which will cause peppers to get papery, blister, or get papery). 
  • Mulch to maintain moisture and deter weeds. 
  • Weed carefully around plants to avoid disturbing roots.
  • Contrary to popular belief, spraying pepper plants with Epsom salts isn’t beneficial.

Here’s another great video on growing and boosting the productivity of your peppers!

Types

Look for varieties that ripen to their full color quickly; fully mature peppers are the most nutritious鈥攁nd tastier, too!

  • Green peppers that turn Red: 鈥楲ady Bell鈥, 鈥楪ypsy鈥, 鈥楤ell Boy鈥, 鈥楲ipstick鈥
  • 鈥谤补苍驳别: 鈥楳ilena鈥, 鈥極range Sun鈥
  • 鈥别濒濒辞飞: 鈥楪olden California Wonder鈥

Group of green bell peppers

Harvesting

  • Once the plants begin producing fruits, pick them promptly: the moment they have reached their full size and color. Regular picking encourages plants to produce more flowers and, of course, more fruits.
  • That said, the longer bell peppers stay on the plant, the sweeter they become and the greater their vitamin C content. 
  • Snip the stems of fruits with a sharp pair of clean pruners, scissors, or a sharp knife. 

How to Store Peppers

  • Peppers can be refrigerated in plastic bags for up to 10 days after harvesting.
  • Bell peppers can be frozen for later use. See how to freeze peppers.
  • Peppers can also be dried. Preheat oven to 140掳F. Wash, core, and seed. Cut into 1/2-inch strips. Steam for about 10 minutes, then spread on a baking sheet. Dry in oven for 4 to 6 hours; turn occasionally and switch tray positions. Cool, then store in bags or containers in a refrigerator.

Green and red bell peppers on plant

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Wit and Wisdom

Sweet bell peppers do not contain capsaicin, which is the compound that gives hot peppers their pungency and heat.

Do different-colored peppers come from different plants? 

Surprisingly enough, the green and red bell peppers that we commonly see in supermarkets are actually the same pepper; the red bell peppers have just been allowed to mature on the plant longer. The longer a bell pepper stays on the plant, the greater its vitamin C content, so red peppers have more vitamin C (and taste sweeter).

Are there male and female peppers?

There is a popular myth that states that pepper fruits can be either male or female鈥攖he difference between them being that male peppers have 3 bumps on the bottom and are better for cooking, while female peppers have 4 bumps, have more seeds, are sweeter, and are better for eating raw. This is not true! Pepper fruits do not have a gender, and any obvious difference between them is simply the result of growing conditions or variety.

Pests/Diseases

Pollination can be reduced in temperatures below 60掳F (16掳C) and above 90掳F (32掳C). Too much nitrogen in the soil can produce healthy foliage growth but discourage fruit from setting. Flower drop is caused by high heat OR very low humidity. If the air is very dry, douse the soil with water and thoroughly mist plants.

Spider mites and aphids are two common pests of peppers, especially plants grown under cover. Spider mites鈥攊dentified by the fine webbing on the underside of leaves鈥攖hrive in hot, dry weather. Mist-spray these areas regularly at the first sign of an attack to make conditions as hostile as possible for the mites. 

Aphids also prefer the undersides of leaves but are found on other parts of the plant too. Squish isolated clusters, or for more serious infestations, take plants out into the open, away from other peppers, then carefully turn the plants upside down so you can brush Spider mites and aphids are two common pests of peppers, especially plants grown under cover. Spider mites 鈥 identified by the fine webbing on the underside of leaves 鈥 thrive in hot, dry weather. Mist-spray these areas regularly at the first sign of an attack to make conditions as hostile as possible for the mites.

Aphids also prefer the undersides of leaves but are found on other parts of the plant too. Squish isolated clusters, or for more serious infestations, take plants out into the open, away from other peppers, then carefully turn the plants upside down so you can brush or blast the aphids off with a hose. 

See more pest and disease information in the below chart:

 
Bell Pepper Pests and Diseases
Pest/DiseaseTypeSymptomsControl/Prevention
AnthracnoseFungusYellow/brown/purple/black spots on leaves; sunken, dark spots on stems and fruit; spots may develop a salmon-pink, gelatinous mass; eventually, plants rotDestroy infected plants; choose resistant varieties; provide good drainage; avoid overhead watering; apply compost for nutrition; use mulch; practice crop rotation.
Aphids InsectMisshapen/yellow leaves; distorted flowers/fruit; sticky 鈥渉oneydew鈥 (excrement produced by aphids); sooty, black mold that forms on honeydew; large presence of ants on plantsGrow companion plants to either attract aphids away (nasturtiums) or repel them outright (basil, rosemary, strong-scented plants); knock aphids off plants with water spray, apply insecticidal soap; put banana or orange peel around plants; wipe leaves with a 1-2% solution of liquid dish soap and water every 2-3 days for 2 weeks; add native plants to attract aphid predators.
Bacterial leaf spotBacteriaVaries; water- soaked rust/black leaf spots between veins later dry/fall out, leaving holes; leaves yellow/ distort/wilt/die; stem cankersDestroy infected parts/ severely infected plants (do not compost); remove plant debris regularly; disinfect tools; prevent plant stress/injury; good air circulation; avoid overhead watering.
Blossom-end rotDisorderCaused by lack of sufficient calcium uptake.
Symptoms: dark, water-soaked spots on blossom end of fruit (the side opposite the stem) may enlarge and become sunken, leathery, rotted		Remove affected fruit; plant at proper soil temperature; water deeply and evenly; use mulch; maintain proper soil pH (6.5) and nutrient levels; avoid excessive nitrogen; provide good drainage; avoid damaging roots.
Colorado potato beetlesInsectYellow-orange eggs laid in clusters on leaf undersides; larvae and adults chew holes in foliageRemove eggs/larvae/beetles by hand; use straw mulch; weed around plants; use row covers; destroy plant matter at end of season; practice crop rotation.
Cucumber mosaic virusVirusSymptoms vary, but may include: stunting; mottled green/yellow/white pattern or ringed spots on leaves/fruit; distorted leaf growth; warts on fruitOften spread by aphids. Destroy infected plants; choose resistant varieties and certified virus-free seed; use row covers; disinfect gardening tools after each use; keep garden weed-free; use mulch.
Flea beetlesInsectNumerous tiny holes in leaves (as if they had been hit by a tiny shotgun)Use row covers to physically block flea beetles; mulch heavily; add native plants to attract beneficial insect predators.
Leaf minersInsectMeandering blisters in leaves caused by tunneling larvaeRemove infested leaves; weed; use row covers; till soil early in season; rotate plantings.
Root-knot nematodesInsectRoots become 鈥渒notted鈥 or galled; plants stunted/yellow/wiltedDestroy affected plant matter (especially roots); choose resistant varieties; expose soil to sun (solarize); add aged manure/compost; disinfect gardening tools between uses; till soil in autumn; practice crop rotation.
Spider mitesInsectFine webs;
yellow-specked under-side of leaves, later brown-edged or bronze or yellow leaves; leaf drop		Rinse plants with water, mist daily; apply insecticidal soap.
Tomato hornwormsInsectChewed leaves (initially toward top of plant); rapid defoliation; black/green excrement; gouged fruitCheck undersides of leaves for hornworms, remove by hand and dispose of hornworms. (If you encounter hornworms that have white, ricelike cocoons on their backs, relocate them instead; the cocoons belong to beneficial parasitic wasps.) Till soil in autumn and spring; companion plant with dill/basil/marigolds to attract (and trap) or repel hornworms; spray plants with Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis).

Recipes

Pickled Peppers
Fire-Roasted Tomato and Red Pepper Soup
Roasted Red Pepper, Mozzarella, and Basil鈥揝tuffed Chicken
Roasted Butternut Squash and Red Pepper Dip

Cooking Notes

Peppers are excellent with almost anything: sandwiches, scrambled eggs, pizza, salads, and dips. 

We also enjoy cooking peppers, whether beef stir-fry, smoky roasted peppers, or meat and rice stuffed peppers.

Plus, peppers can be pickled! See how to make pickled peppers!

Vegetables
About The Author

Catherine Boeckmann

Catherine Boeckmann loves nature, stargazing, and gardening so it鈥檚 not surprising that she and The Old Farmer鈥檚 蜜桃恋人 found each other. She leads digital content for the 蜜桃恋人 website, and is also a certified master gardener in the state of Indiana. Read More from Catherine Boeckmann
 

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Comments

It’s hard to know what it might be, as there are several things that can cause large brown spots on fruit. However, I’m wondering if it might have been anthracnose; for more information about this disease, see: http://www.almanac.com/pest/anthracnose and this article from the Ohio Cooperative Extension:
http://www.oardc.ohio-state.edu/sallymiller/Extension%20Outreach/information%20transfer/Factsheets/Vegetable/Anthracnosepepper.pdf
which shows you a picture of it on bell pepper fruit.

Some other possibilities might include:
blossom end rot: http://www.almanac.com/pest/blossom-end-rot
                           http://extension.uga.edu/publications/detail.cfm?number=C938
sunscald: http://msue.anr.msu.edu/news/hot_and_sunny_days_promote_sunscald_in_peppers_and_other_vegetables

Hope this helps!

Loretta (not verified)

7 years 9 months ago

I am growing seedlings from the actual Capsicum, and have them near a window in the kitchen, they are in a seedling tray, there are about 26, and are 6cm tall, my question is:- Should I put them into a large pot or let them grow a lot bigger?
Regards,
Loretta

Loretta Polley (not verified)

7 years 9 months ago

Good morning,
I submitted a question to you on 26 February 2017, but have just realised that you are in England, and I am in Sydney, Australia, our climates are very different!! My apologies, I will try one of our sites.
Regards,
Loretta

Ernest S. (not verified)

7 years 9 months ago

I recently started pepper plants from seeds using peat moss pellets and a windowsill "greenhouse"/tray. Most of the seeds have sprouted and I am leaving them on the windowsill for the day and under a desk lamp at night. My question are: is the desk lamp sufficient for supplying light and to a lesser extent heat? Do I need to transplant the peppers from the peat pellets to a pot before hardening off and planting in my elevated bed, or can I keep them in the pellets until transferring to the bed? (P.S. I put casters on the garden bed so that I can roll it into the garage at night in order to avoid frost and major temperature drops. I assume this will allow me to transplant sooner assuming the soil temp remains above 65--I live in the deep south, MS). Thanks for any help you can give.

You can keep your pepper seedlings in the peat pellets, to help minimize transplant shock (they are especially good for that, since you can plant them pellet and roots together in the ground). If you do not plan to transplant them out directly in the garden for several weeks, you might consider at some midway point between now and then, transplanting the seedling (including its peat pellet) into a larger pot. Otherwise, wait and plant outside directly, after hardening off. As to the lighting, seedlings usually need about 12 to 16 hours of light. Make sure that your desk light is not on constantly overnight—use a timer. It would be better to use a grow light that offers the spectrum needed by plants, or a fluorescent shop light. The windowsill and desk lamp (if using a regular light bulb) may lead to thin, elongated stems. If there is no other option, though, adjust the lamp so that it is close to the seedlings, but not too close to cause any heat damage. Keep rotating your plants every day, even twice a day, so that the stems do not grow in one direction (toward the source of light). Good luck!

Paul Bisgaard (not verified)

8 years ago

A hard freeze is coming, should I pull my bell pepper plants as I do tomatoes, or pick them individually?

It’s up to you. Some gardeners pull the whole plant and hang it upside down in a basement or garage, while others just harvest the ripening peppers. The fruit can be placed in a paper bag with an apple to help hasten ripening, if you prefer. If you have lots of peppers that are not up to full size yet, you might try pulling the whole plant in case the plant can still give the fruit a tiny bit more nutrients before the plant dries. But if your peppers are mostly of a mature size, then just harvesting the peppers themselves should work fine.

last year (about the time the original question was asked) I had a bunch of peppers that I did not want to loose. I dug up the plant, root ball and all, and put them in large nursery pots I had saved. they were in shock about two days because it had been cool, but the fruit all ripened. some of the plants were still (sort of) alive at the end of the winter but did not appear to try regrowing. this year I am going to plant some in pots a little later in the season but keep them in the garden so they can be pollinated before winter- that late in the year the bees and other pollinators are trying to build up their food stores for the winter with whatever is around and will be glad for the food. plus can be brought into a garage or other unheated space overnight if there is a frost coming and put back out the next morning

By the way I also dug up the marigolds and geraniums in the garden because they were still blooming, and put them in clean cat litter boxes, saved aluminum buffet pans (the ones that go over the burner- double up for strength), and saved plastic trays from hamburger. at the holidays I put cloth around them and had nice arrangements on display

Thomas Graves, MD (not verified)

8 years ago

Online friends claim both peppers and the individual plants which bore them come in two genders which can be identified by the number of lobes on the peppers and the appearance of the seeds inside them. This seems botanically questionable and not provable except by chromosomal studies. Does anyone know about this for sure?

A hot topic, it appears, on the Web. No. It’s a hoax. Pepper plant flowers contain both mail and female reproductive parts, and so the developing fruit is neither male nor femaile. The number of lobes does not affect flavor. Don’t believe everything you read on the Web…but you can believe this.