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Planting, Growing, and Caring for Coneflowers
Coneflowers, also known as echinacea, are one of America鈥檚 native wildflowers, beloved by butterflies, bees, and songbirds. Learn more about growing coneflower care鈥攆rom planting to pests to deadheading.
About Perennial Coneflowers
Echinacea are tough perennials in the daisy family (Asteraceae) and hardy in Zones 3 to 9. They are native to the eastern and central United States, blooming in mid-summer and continue to flower sporadically until frost.
The genus is named after the Greek word for hedgehog, echinos, because of its cone-like center, which attracts butterflies and bees. Leave the seed heads after bloom, and you鈥檒l also attract songbirds such as goldfinches!
Of course, this plant is good for humans, too, with many medicinal properties; today, it鈥檚 especially popular as an herbal tea to strengthen the immune system.
Do Coneflowers Spread?
This is not an aggressive plant, but it will naturally self-seed and spread, which you can encourage if you wait to cut back until late winter (or prohibit self-seeding if you deadhead the flowers right after they fade). Hybrids will not self-sow; most are sterile (they do not produce viable seeds). Hybrids aren鈥檛 of much interest to birds, either.
The Purple Coneflower
The purple coneflower (E. purpurea) is the most common and readily available. The flowers measure 2 to 4 inches in diameter and have a mounded, brown, central cone of disk flowers surrounded by long light purple rays that droop down the center cone. Up to nine naturally occurring echinacea can also be found in purple shades or yellow (E. paradoxa). They have dark green lower leaves 4 to 8 inches long.
Coneflowers are striking when planted in masses, especially as a mix of various colors. They are trouble-free once established in a traditional garden or wildflower meadow. They are commonly seen in perennial flower gardens.
Growing
- Coneflowers are drought tolerant, but new plants need water occasionally and more often if the spring season is especially dry.
- Native in-ground coneflowers seldom need fertilizer.
- To delay blooming for fall enjoyment (and compact growth), cut back stems 1 foot when plants come into bloom. For staggered bloom heights and times, cut only a few stems.
- Beneficial, wasplike soldier beetles may appear in August. They feed on insect eggs and larvae and pollinate plants. Do not harm them. Learn more about insects that help out around the garden.
- In late fall, lightly spread mulch in colder regions.
- Cut the stems back to soil level when they wither or after frost.
- Divide or transplant coneflowers in spring or fall.
Deadheading Coneflowers
Should you deadhead coneflowers? There are pros and cons. Deadheading right after a flower fades prolongs blooming and prevents reseeding. However, if you can wait until late winter, your birds鈥攅specially goldfinch 鈥 will enjoy those seedheads. Plus, coneflowers self-seed prolifically, so where you had only one, you鈥檒l have multiple places in the garden with lovely blooms that attract butterflies and bees.
How to deadhead coneflowers? After the flowers fade, cut back stems to a leaf near a new flower bud or a set of leaves. Use sharp, sterilized shears as coneflowers are too thick to snap back the spent flower head with your fingers.
Growing Coneflowers in Pots
We tend to grow coneflowers in the ground as perennial plants, but you can certainly grow them in pots if the containers are deep enough for the plant鈥檚 taproot.
- Use 2- or 3-gallon (or larger) pots with drainage holes. Spread crushed gravel in the bottom of the pots for drainage.
- Fill the pot halfway with the potting mix. Tamp down. Plant the root ball an inch below the rim of the container, spreading out the roots. Add soil slowly until it is even with the top of the root ball, tamping down lightly. Water deeply.
- Keep pots in partial shade for 2 to 3 days, then place in full morning sun and partial afternoon shade.
- Always water deeply at the soil level, and the soil is dry to the touch. Water on leaves can cause fungal disease.
- Fertilize every couple of weeks with a water-soluble 10-10-10 product.
- Deadhead just below the base of the flower for continued bloom.
- To overwinter, prune plants to soil level when plant growth slows in fall.
- Move to a cool (40潞 to 50潞F) area, with low to moderate indirect light.
- Check the soil every couple of weeks and water lightly when the top 3 inches are dry.
- When new growth appears in spring, move to a brighter, warmer (60潞 to 70潞F) area. Moving the plant helps to prepare it for living outdoors in the spring and summer.
- Do not water leaves from above, as this can encourage fungal disease on leaves. Instead, water at the soil level. Use an insecticidal soap or neem oil solution spray if you see any aphids or pests.
- Every 3 to 4 years, in spring, after new growth has started, divide and repot echinacea plants.
Types
These are native, unless noted 鈥
- 鈥楻obert Bloom鈥 (Echinacea purpurea): red-purple petals; prominent, dark orange centers
- 鈥楩inale White鈥 (E. purpurea): creamy-white petals; greenish-brown centers
- Narrow-leaf coneflower (E. augustifolia): similar to E. purpurea
- Pale purple coneflower (E. pallida); native to Ontario
- Sanguine purple coneflower (E. sanguinea): red-purple petals with streaks (sanguinea, Latin for 鈥渂lood鈥 refers to streaks in petals; native to southern states
- Smooth purple coneflower (E. laevigata): narrow, drooping, pale-pink petals; endangered
- Tennessee coneflower (E. tennesseensis): upturned mauve petals; greenish-pink centers
- Topeka purple coneflower (E. atrorubens): deep pink short petals; rare
- Wavy leaf coneflower (E. simulata): yellow pollen distinguishes it from E. pallida (white pollen)
- Yellow coneflower (E. paradoxa), aka Ozark coneflower: yellow petals
- 鈥楥濒别辞辫补迟谤补鈥 (E. hybrid): soft yellow petals; copper-green centers
Read about our favorite coneflower varieties here!
Catherine Boeckmann
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I live in zone 9, near Tampa. I have never grown coneflower, and I planted 2 hybrid coneflowers, late summer last year, in September. Both of them started to die in December. Now it is late February and both plants are dead all the way to the ground. I gently yanked the remaining brown stems, just to see how dead they actually were and they came off easily in my hands. There is now no signs of life there at all. Will they come back, or should I just try to plant new ones? If they are actually dead, what might have killed them? We had a mild winter with a few frosts, but generally Temps did not go below 30. I watered lightly only every few days through the winter months, which has always been adequate for my other plants. Thank you!
Hi, Julie, Such a particular problem requires a particular response鈥攁nd our experience with this particular combination of circumstances is shallow. So we sought out some people/sources who appear to be experts.
鈥 This page suggests that the 鈥渧ast majority of coneflower being propagated in Florida does not come from Florida stock鈥 and so acts like annuals in Florida; this could be your problem: http://hawthornhillwildflowers.blogspot.com/2013/07/purple-coneflower-echinacea-purpurea.html
鈥 This page says that Purple Coneflower is native, but can be vulnerable to slugs: http://orange.ifas.ufl.edu/res_hort/pp.html#Purple%20Coneflower
鈥 As the first link suggests, there are several varieties of coneflower, more still because they were produced/introduced in a rainbow of colors a few years ago. It’s not clear what your hybrid is, and that’s why this page may be of interest. Scroll down through the alphabet of plants on this page until you get to 鈥淐one Flower.鈥 You’ll see a picture of a YELLOW鈥拢辞迟 PURPLE鈥攆lower. The text indicates that this variety is native to Florida and thus more likely to thrive. http://nassau.ifas.ufl.edu/horticulture/gardentalk/flowers.html (Pls note that there is a plant sale mentioned in this text; we have absolutely no information on that event; contact the source of the page for more information.)
We hope this helps! Gardening is always an experiment in nature.
I just bought and planted a whole bunch of "PowWow" and "White Swan" coneflowers end of September. They look pretty happy with nice blooms. Now I'm reading online that you should not let the flowers bloom the first year so that the roots develop and they make it through the winter. But the blooms were already all there when I bought them. Should I quickly cut off all the blooms and buds on my plants? Or wait till they die off naturally (which I assume should happen soon). I'm not sure if this late in the year any of the energy would go into making roots anyway. I am in Virginia and it is just starting to get cold with nights down below 40 degrees. It would be sad if they died their first winter!
If your plants are healthy and had a good-size rootball when you planted them they should be fine. You can add mulch around the plants when the ground freezes.
I have white coneflowes planted in my back garden which gets sun early in the morning. When they bloomed the stems were crooked and bent over. Should I move them to more sun or is there something else wrong?
Coneflowers prefer full sun and lean, dry soil. Usually the stems are very sturdy but there could be many factors causing yours to bend. Are there borers living in the stems? Did you over-fertilize which causes rapid weak growth? Did they get too much water? Is the soil heavy and wet? Try moving them to a sunny spot with sandy soil and see if that helps.
I recently was giving the tops from a friend from her cone flowers, I was told to just plant them in my flower beds and they will grow next year, they will create a root from the seeds from the cone flower heads. By chance is this correct, they are beautiful flowers, just want to check before I planted soon.
If the seedheads are nice and dry you can plant them in the ground. You may want to break the heads open and take out the individual seeds to plant. Just remember that the seeds need at least 2 to 3 weeks of chilling temperatures to germinate. If you have cold winters you are all set.
Hi, It is now Aug4 and my Cons have had a great season of growth and flowering due to little help from me. I have noticed that that the purple are not looking as good as the yellow but of late we have had less rain so the plants seem to be top heavy and are falling from the weight it seems. My question is how should I prep for winter and should I cut back the heavey plants? Do I just let them go the distance? Thanks.
Hi Pat, Cut off the dead flowers to prolong the blooming season and prevent excessive self-seeding. If your plants are floppy, cut them to the ground after they are done blooming. To attract birds, keep the late-season flowers on the plants to mature.
