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How to Grow Rhododendrons and Azaleas

A flowering pink rhododendron bush/shrub.

Rhododendrons are popular among gardeners with their evergreen shrubbery and early blooms.

Photo Credit
Pixabay
Botanical Name
Rhododendron spp.
Plant Type
Shrubs and Bushe
Sun Exposure
Part Sun
Shade
Soil pH
Acidic
Bloom Time
Spring
Summer
Fall
Flower Color
Pink
Purple
Red
White
Yellow
Hardiness Zone
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
Special Features
Attracts Songbirds

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Planting, Growing, and Pruning Rhododendrons and Azaleas

Catherine Boeckmann

Flowering rhododendron and azalea shrubs, both from the genus Rhododendron, have long been mainstays of the garden; many have leaves that stay green all year. Caring for these beauties isn’t difficult either鈥攁s long as you meet their needs. Learn more in our complete guide to growing.

About Rhododendrons & Azaleas

Azaleas are actually part of the rhododendron genus. This means all azaleas are technically rhododendrons, but not all rhododendrons are azaleas. 

How to tell the difference? 

Rhododendrons are generally larger flowering bushes, with some growing 20 feet wide. Azaleas are usually smaller, with some ground cover varieties only growing 1 to 2 feet tall.

The rhododendron leaves are generally large and leathery; the flowers are often bell-shaped and grouped at the end of the stems with 10 stamens (the long structures that stick out of the center of the flower). Azalea leaves are usually pointed and narrow. The flowers tend to be more spread out on stems and more funnel-shaped. They also have less than five stamens.

Rhodys are fussier, preferring environments that are neither hot nor cold (Zones 5 to 8). They need a certain amount of chilling to develop strong flower buds. In the winter, protect rhododendrons from cold damage. (See more below.) Azaleas come in two groups: evergreen and deciduous (varieties that drop their leaves in the fall). Both can be found in nearly every part of North America, from the frosty Canadian plains to tropical Florida.

With thousands of varieties, there are rhododendrons and azaleas for just about every landscape situation. They come in many flower colors, including pink, red, white, yellow, and purple. Though most plants flower in the spring, there are also summer-blooming varieties that add color to the garden.

Explore tips for growing the best varieties of rhododendrons and azaleas.

Tips for Buying Plants

  • When shopping for rhododendron or azaleas, pay attention to when they flower. Early varieties can blossom in March; late ones into July or even the fall.
  • Buy plants that are deep green (not yellowed), aren’t wilted, and have been well watered. Check the soil in the container with your finger and avoid plants that are bone dry.
  • If your weather heats up to above 90掳F in spring, avoid white-flowered azaleas. Their thin petals drop off in the heat.
  • In hot climates, buy plants in 3-gallon pots rather than 1-gallon pots. Small plants, with their smaller root balls, struggle in the hot late spring and summer.
Read Next

Planting

Most large-leafed varieties require dappled shade; avoid deep shade or full sun. A sunny spot that receives a few hours of shade is perfect. See regional guidelines below.

Soil should be well-drained, humus-rich, moist, and acidic (pH 4.5鈥6).  

Azaleas and rhododendrons have shallow root systems and need moist soil and mulch to keep them from drying out. Amend planting areas with compost, peat moss, or a substitute, only if your soil is poor. Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.

鈫 Not sure which hardiness zone you鈥檙e in? See the USDA map.

Planting in Cold or Temperate Regions (Zones 3 to 6)

  • Plant in full sun to increase flowers and avoid mildew problems. Shrubs need a minimum of 6 hours of full sun daily.
  • Plant on the sheltered side of a windbreak. If subjected to cold, dry winds, their leaves and buds dry out and die, especially during winter winds.

Planting in Warm or Hot Regions (Zones 7 to 11)

  • Plant in a site that receives afternoon shade, especially in hot areas. In tropical zones, azaleas will bloom in full shade.

How to Plant Rhododendron & Azaleas

  • Plant in spring or early fall.
  • Space plants 2 to 6 feet apart, depending on their estimated mature size. Dig a hole as deep as the root ball and about twice as wide. 
  • Set new plants so that their top roots are at soil level or slightly below. If you plant them any deeper, the roots and trunks may rot.
  • Fill the hole half full with soil, then water it well to settle the soil before filling it with the remainder of the soil.
rhododendron flowers
Rhododendrons are a welcome sight each spring!

Growing

How to Care for Rhododendron & Azaleas

  • Mulch plants every spring with 2 to 5 inches of pine bark chips or pine needles to protect shallow roots and retain soil moisture. A lack of water reduces flower bud formation. Read more about using mulch.
    • Tip: A common mistake is to create a so-called 鈥渕ulch volcano,鈥 where mulch is piled heavily around the trunk of the shrub. In fact, this can keep the trunk too wet and encourage rot. Always leave a few inches around the trunk free of mulch.
    • See our guide to using mulch.
  • Fertilize azaleas and rhododendrons sparingly and only when flower buds swell in the early spring, even if they are fall bloomers. Heavy applications of fertilizer will burn the plants鈥 roots.
  • Water plants during the summer if rainfall is less than 1 inch per week.
  • After flowering, deadhead where practical, to promote vegetative growth rather than seed production. Remove dead flowers from rhododendrons carefully; next year鈥檚 buds are just under the old heads and will start to develop shortly after flowering.
  • Azaleas and rhododendrons may be transplanted at any time during the growing season, but they transplant most successfully during fall or early spring when they are dormant and temperatures are cool. 

Winter Care for Rhododendrons

Rhododendrons are shallow-rooted plants; in cold regions, apply several inches of organic mulch around the base. In regions with severe winters, consider wrapping evergreen rhododendrons with burlap in the fall. Cold, dry winds will cause too much moisture evaporation from the leaves, which will wither and die. To help them recover from cold snaps, deeply water rhododendrons if there are warmer days. In the spring, prune out any dead or damaged branches and leaves.

Pruning Rhododendron & Azaleas

  • In general, do not prune spring-flowering shrubs such as azaleas and rhododendrons. If you need to reduce height, prune after flowering in the spring.
  • Otherwise, just remove dead, damaged, or diseased branches at any time of year. 
  • On young and old plants, simply snap off spent flower stalks by bending them over until they break away from their stems. Be careful not to damage growth buds at the base of each flower stalk.
Rhododendron bud red
This bud is a sure-fire sign that beautiful flowers are almost here!

Types

There are more than 900 species in the Rhododendron genus, which vary greatly. It would take a whole book to understand this wide world! 

You may be interested in joining the , which runs a database with information on more than 2,000 rhododendrons and azaleas. On an annual basis, the society selects a number of rhododendrons to be awarded the designation, highlighting the best-performing plants for different regions. 

Here is a handful of varieties that we think you’ll enjoy:

  • 鈥楤lue Diamond’ is a dwarf evergreen rhododendron that grows to 3 feet. It blooms mid-season with violet-blue flowers. Zones 7 to 9.
  • 鈥楥别肠颈濒别’ is a vigorous azalea that grows to 7 feet and produces dark salmon-pink buds in mid-season. Zones 5 to 8.
  • 鈥楬ydon Dawn’ is a low-growing rhododendron that actually tolerates full sun. Pale pink flowers bloom in mid-season. Zones 7 to 9.
  • 鈥楴ova Zembla’ is an evergreen rhododendron that grows 5 to 10 feet tall and bears bright red flowers in late midseason. Zones 5 to 8.
  • 鈥楻osy Lights’ is an azalea that offers extra cold hardiness. It grows to 6 feet and bears deep purple-pink flowers. Zones 3 to 8.
  • 鈥楶urple Gem’ is a dwarf rhododendron that grows to 2 feet and is an early-season bloomer. It bears small, light purple flowers. Excellent in front of a border or in a rock garden. Zones 5 to 8.

Harvesting

Cut branches once the buds have just opened. Change the water every few days and give the stems a fresh cut at the same time. Vase life is about 7 days.

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Wit and Wisdom

The name 鈥rhododendron鈥 comes from the Greek rhodo, for 鈥渞ose,鈥 and dendron, meaning 鈥渢ree.鈥

Rhododendrons are the state flower of Washington and West Virginia.

The glittering leaves of the rhododendrons
Balance and vibrate in the cool air;
While in the sky above them
White clouds chase each other.
鈥揓ohn Gould Fletcher

Pests/Diseases

Shrubs and Trees
About The Author

Catherine Boeckmann

Catherine Boeckmann loves nature, stargazing, and gardening so it鈥檚 not surprising that she and The Old Farmer鈥檚 蜜桃恋人 found each other. She leads digital content for the 蜜桃恋人 website, and is also a certified master gardener in the state of Indiana. Read More from Catherine Boeckmann
 

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Comments

mecala (not verified)

8 years 1 month ago

I don't have a question at the moment but wanted to thank you for your site and the thorough information you provide (and of course, the gorgeous pictures).
I am very interested in herbal teas and Labrador Tea (from the rhododendron bush) is one of them. A friend asked me to find out the best information possible on growing rhododendron so that she can harvest her own leaves. I came upon this gem and have forwarded her the link. I will certainly be back often. Thanks again!

If it doesn’t seem root-bound or stressed, you can leave it in the pot until spring, but keep it outside in a protected area (like up against the house) and put a thick layer of much around its crown. The main thing is to let it experience the cold so it goes fully dormant.

Joanna (not verified)

8 years 1 month ago

I have azalea plant in the pot it came in. I've had it since February. I am moving to NH and want to plant it there. Should I keep in pot till spring or can I plant in mid November? Plant has special meaning. Thank you

Bob Lesch (not verified)

8 years 2 months ago

This May of 2016 I planted 1-Rhododendron and 3 Blackeyed Susans. The Blackeyed Susans are in front of the Rhododendron. The Rhododendron stopped flowering by July and the petals dried up. Then the Blackeyed Susans started to flower,grew both in height and width, and now block out the Rhododendron. Since this is the first year for the plants, how do I prune,thin or cut back both plants to get ready for next year growing season. Also,should I fertilize them now and what type of fertilizer

Hi Bob,

Don’t prune the rhodie; it needs to get established. As for the black-eyed Susans, they are perennials and should be cut back to the ground when they die off for the season (typically late fall). Ultimately, the shrub will outsize the perennials and you will have a nice underplanting. The fertilizing season is winding down so don’t worry about that until spring. Look for slow-release granular fertilizers formulated for rhododendrons.

Carole Whitley (not verified)

8 years 3 months ago

Can you prune the azaleas all the way back?

Azaleas look best when pruned consistently and minimally every day (removing dead limbs). However, if your azalea is overgrown, yes, you can prune azaleas down to about 1 foot in height.

Kathryn (not verified)

8 years 3 months ago

I have had three rhododendrons on the side of my house for around 17 years. They have thrived however this year the leaves turned brown on one of them, while the other two still look good. We were concerned it had died but recently it has had some new green leaves on the bottom branches of the plant. Any thoughts on what could have caused this and what we can do to help it come back?

Hi, Kathryn, 鈥淩hodos鈥 are pretty resilient but occasionally they get sick. The wilt or browning that you describe could be caused by several things, such as poor drainage (is this plant more vulnerable to pooling water than the others?), summer drought (oddly enough, too little water is about as damaging as too much), accumulated fertilizer that did not wash into the soil (see poor drainage above), being planted too deep (on the face of it this may not sound like your plant…but if water runoff or the like has carried soil/silt or mulch to the plant and that built up on the roots, it is as if the plant is buried too deeply; the roots should be near the surface of the soil/ground)

It sounds like your rhodo is in recovery, Perhaps you can help it along by checking on these points.

Thanks for asking! Hope this helps鈥